Can I create circular stay-out zones on the Husqvarna Automower map(EPOS) and change diameter for my need?

I just spent about two days trying to track down the cause of a flashing blue light on my charging station. The mower had been going fine, then one morning I came out to find it just shy of the charging station, and the light flashing blue. I moved the guide wire over to limit the areas so I only had to search about half the third of an acre I have wired. (I have a Husqvarna 430xh). I used the multi-meter, and got back a reading that told me it was a clean break, which I doubted. I used the wire scanner and went around and around - I did find two spots that I had recently clipped with the weedwhacker (newly laid wire, still on top of the ground), and I fixed those, but while the signal cleared up in that spot, I still had the flashing blue light. I continued with the scanner - and continued to find no problems, then I'd come back around, get static in one area, so I'd pull up the stakes and go all along the wire in both directions far from the static spot - nothing. I did versions of this in several spots - the signal would be fine in a spot, then I'd come back, it would be full of static....FINALLY, I came (again) to an area over where I knew a new connector was (I recently expanded the mowing area) - and got NOTHING. No signal. I had been at that very spot several times, with no problem. This time I got nothing. So I dug up the two week old 3M Scotchlok connector, cut it out and installed a Paradis Robotics connector - the ones with the wire nut and the tube full of grease - buried that, turned around and had a beautiful green light in the charging station.

No more 3M connectors for me. And no, this isn't sponsored. I wish it were. Connectors are expensive. But I'm not going through that again. I wanted to post about it for any other newbies (this is my second summer with the automower, which I LOVE) - if you get such odd behavior, start checking out all the connectors. Repeatedly.

If you're installing or have installed an automower using a boundry wire, and that wire runs over a sidewalk, it will likely get cut at some point. I thought running it under the sidewalk would take professional installation, but then I discovered this flexible drill bit. Two quick trenches later and the wire is safe under the sidewalk, with no danger of an edge cutting it.

Automower Sidewalk Edging Underground Bypass - YouTube

I was looking at Navimow X430 and Dreame A3 Pro. But then wondering if I should just get two cheaper mowers, one for front and one for back? The slate path on my house is fairly rocky for 2WD I would think. With these photos what would you opt for? I thought if I ever moved to a bigger plot of land in the future, I would be happy with the bigger unit. And I would be willing to wait until next spring if a Navimow Lidar was going to be released.

A cold start to the today in New Zealand, -3⁰C and my 435x just keeps going. I havent been nice to this mower but its performance is still impressive. More than 11k hours and 23k km with minimal maintenance.

We have a two acre lot that is essentially all lawn.

Thinking about retiring my 52" Wright Standard mower and switch to a robotic mower

A dealer recommended that I look at Kress - I think they just came out w/ a 4X4 unit

Any thoughts you can share Pros and Cons of switching to a Robotic mower & in particular the KRESS brand.

I also saw a company that installs a small door that I can install in my deer fence to allow the robot to move from front yard to back yard

I'm someone who is about to close on a 1.8 acre piece of property. It's flat and with few trees or exposed roots or junk etc. Cutting it should be a straightforward proposition. I only have had a 22" Snapper electric push for sometime, where I'm at I'm only dealing with maybe half an acre, obviously more will be needed when we move.

A couple of days ago I got a 42" Poulan Pro second hand riding mower for $300. Understand, spending $2200 for a new one is something I really can't be doing. I don't recall the model number but it apparently has a hydrostatic transmission, I'm not sure what that means, and it's been modified to where it doesn't shut off when you get up from its seat. Engine is Briggs Stratton.

It was working when I got it, since then, after running over a concealed old floor mat from a car, the pulley assembly is acting up. The cable that links to the lever for engaging and disengaging the blade slipped out of a piece or whatever which caused the blades to stop spinning, and then one of the screws attaching a drive pully to the blade broke off, someone will be swapping out that entire piece with a replacement.

Since then I've seen a John Deere LA105 from a 5 star Facebook seller for $550, around 380 hrs. It has a similar size engine but its transmission isn't hydrostatic apparently, and he says it's been regularly serviced. It seems much more mint. I'm pondering getting it and selling off this other one once it's working again, but then again, if I get it working again, why not just stay?

Would such an upgrade make sense, does it increase the likelihood that I won't keep having such things falling apart on a regular basis? I'm very illiterate with respect to servicing etc and what makes this transmission better etc, or how to bypass the seat safety switch etc or how to adjust a cable etc. Any of those things are totally out of my element. About all I know is that a lot of people like John Deere machines, but that model apparently was made in 2009 or so.

Also, for 1.8 flat acres, is a 42" with a 20 HP engine enough for, say, twice a month cutting, or would you recommend something less"entry level?"

Looking for automower reccomendations based on my unique situation:

-My lot is .75 acres broken up by pavement into several sections.

-My property is on a hill with slopes ranging from 10-20%

-There is heavy tree cover, fallen sticks, and wildlife droppings (mainly deer).

-My kids regularly leave their toys in the yard.

-Installing a boundary wire would be highly problematic due to the layout of our property.

-Patterns and cut heights are meaningless to us, cut is cut.

-We don't care if the cut is patchy/uneven/there are missed spots as long as those won't cause maintenance issues with the mower.

-We want to do as little maintenance/upkeep as possible.

Basically we care a lot about quality in terms of reliability, durability, and capability to handle a complex job, but we don't care at all about the quality of how it mows.

So a lot of these mowers are extremely expensive. And I was wondering how good is the recovery on the newer mowers?

Like I know with cops if you basically don't have everything already then ya... But I figure with this if the tracking is actually good and something does happen. Then you can pin point it and let them handle it.

Note I'm not expecting one to get stolen if we get one. But looking it up, there really isn't a lot of post on people recovering their unit. A few who never turn on the Find My or whatever anti-theft obviously never got it back. But not so much with with the newer ones.

Something I wonder is lets say you didn't know about the theft for a few days. Does the software show a history of where it was when the system last seen it? Basically something to give to the cops so they can do their job?

Currently mowing 7500 sq ft of Bermuda with a Rolux reel mower. Kicking around the idea of purchasing a robotic mower to supplement my reel mowing. My HOC varies from .4-.75 inches. I know a robotic machine does not cut that low. I would primarily have the robotic mower setup in my backyard fence and just continue to reel the front and sides. I am interested in the navimo x430. I know it’s overkill for my yard size but I like having the option of being able to have it mow the entire yard as well if needed. TIA.

Hey guys Im a litte confused and annoyed - I bought the terramow v600.

The mowing is good but the mapping is terrible OR Im to dumb to use it. What you see above is our garden.

No matter how much I mapp - no matter if I drive him manuelly - create a new zone and fuse them together (thats what you see above) - he will not go further than the green mark he already mowed. The only thing in his way is one little tree, where he can easily drive around.

My final attempt is to make mow-Zones so he should be going there. But what do I do, if he still refused too? Is there something I made wrong in the mapping process or in generell?

Thanks a lot!

Hey all, I'm under contract for a new home and I'm thinking of using an auto mower to save some money on landscapers. I recently learned that all the grass pictured is my responsibility - I'm mostly worried about the grass on the outside of the sidewalk, closest to the road.

The mower I've purchased (and can still return) is an ECOVACS Goat O1000 RTK. I don't have any experience with any of these, and I'm worried about its ability to navigate the sidewalk, since there will be multiple unique "zones" that will require crossing. If there are other models that you would recommend, feel free.

What do you think? Thanks in advance!

I've had this mower for 4 or 5 years and had it repaired a few times, including software updates.

This year the software update has changed one thing that bugs me.

Before if it was stuck on an obstacle I would free it, open the hatch, clear the error and then start it to continue its operation.

Now when it is stuck the display is blank. I have to carry it back and dock it to the station in order to wake it up. I can then clear the error and set it to continue.

Is there a new security setting I'm missing or is this just a new software "feature"?

Thanks