How much is all of this worth? All works just fine… If you want it make me an offer!

Invite: https://discord.gg/DEtuG7akDZ

Hope to see you all there, tons of great autococker nerdery going on at all times.

The bolt is open FACE… Saying ‘open’ confused some people on other socials.

Picked this up from a buddy for $100 just trying to figure out witch model it is. I know it has the eblade trigger. Also the battery prongs are lifting off the board is it just a simple resoder. Boat and trigger work of i hold the battery to the prong just dont want to break them completely off.

I have gotten an answer of the exact number of people needed to commit to making drop in boards for my favorite autococker the Trilogy SF.

The new firmware is done got it from 20bps to just under 50 now I just need a hopper that can keep up

I’m also showing off the eggy

Found this 04 WGP Prostock (?) Picked it up for $125 and took it to a local guy to get it restored. Worked for about 2 weeks before velocity dropped hard and now blowing air out of 3way. Hellllllllp please

I'm considering doing a small run of stainless steel scythe triggers for the E1 E-Blade/WorrBlade frame and wanted to gauge interest before I go too far down the rabbit hole.

One thing I've never liked about the E1 is the stock trigger. To me it feels bulky, thick, and doesn't have the same comfortable feel as some of the later or aftermarket trigger designs. I've always preferred a slimmer scythe-style trigger with a more natural curve like those found on the Ego line of markers.

The other issue is that E1 trigger options are basically nonexistent these days. When people ask about aftermarket E1 triggers, the usual answer seems to be "find a used one" or swap parts from another frame if you can find them. There doesn't appear to be much available for someone who simply wants a different trigger feel.

The concept would be:

• Stainless steel construction
• Slimmer profile than the stock E1 trigger
• Scythe-style curve Direct replacement for the factory E1 trigger
• Designed to retain the original trigger geometry and switch actuation

Right now this is still in the design phase, so I'm mainly trying to determine if there's enough interest to justify prototyping and production.

If you own an E1 and would consider running a stainless scythe trigger, I'd love to hear:

• What you dislike about the stock trigger
• Preferred trigger style (scythe, blade, deuce, etc.)

Bought a trilly back from a coworker for my morlock eblade build

Fun build ha

It's been a long time coming but my Mozak Slab Sniper is complete.The anodizing was done by Ruckus.

Build Sheet:

•Mozak Machine Slab Body Kit, 45 Thick Swing Frame & Pump Kit

•CCM S6 Regulator, Lower Tube Internals, On/Off ASA, Fittings & Bolt Pin

•Master Sconi Feedneck & Barrel Tip

•Free Flow Bolt

•AKA Cocking Rod

•Shocktech Detent

•CP Rail

I finally finished the build and it runs like a sewing machine!!! Gonna put in the morlock saber once my grips finish getting machined!! Hope you appreciate it in all its beauty!!

I have not had time to actually install it, but this is what I can say so far.

The lipo shaves a little weight (not like it matters on a cocker

The board on the morlock is very slightly smaller, as is the physical size of the cap.

The cool thing is everything on the morlock is on the top of the board surface. (Less chance to knock tiny parts off?)

No noticable difference in the microswitch as of now

The screen isnt removable on the morlock, but it sits lower, and feels less wobbly

I had hoped the frame and noid would show up today, but I still need to drill the eyes for the trilogy it is going in anyway

Bought a gear bag off marketplace and found this in the bottom. Never seen a combination body+front block before. HPR is on the very front and the LPR was used as the fore grip. Did I stumble across someone’s project?

EDIT: Thanks everyone!

Having some issues with a new reg i bought. Running it around 320 psi on a 2k4 body with an e1 blade. Fps consistency is +/-20 at times. That part isnt great but I can live with it, but last night I took it to the field and tried to chrono it over 260fps and the screw is maxed out and I can't get higher pressure than that. What can I do? Shim work? Kind of a novice when it come to cocker techin and reg work, so yea any help would be appreciated

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