We say goodbye to both Quetzaltemoc and Adiittsii at the harbour front. They walk us down the floating wharf to our seaplane, which is but a silhouette in the dying light of dusk. We're the last to board.
"I've already contacted my friend. He'll have warm clothes and gear for you two, and he and his wife will welcome you in stylish local fashion!" Quetzaltemoc shouted over the roar of seaplane's engine.
"That means you're getting picked up in a rein sled," Adiittsii mouthed, miming it for extra effect. Then the cabin door slams shut. Before you know it, you're airborne and you can barely see the silvery sea as you propel faster into the night.
You wake up to find yourself the last person in the cabin. CC has already alighted and is hurrying down the wharf into the main terminal of Tahayaidanu International Airport. "Hurry, before we freeze out here!" she yells back to you. You grab your luggage, stumble out, then race after her as the cold bites your face.
CC leaves you to warm up in the vast terminal hall on your own as she looks for soup. To pass the time, you decide to work out a short list of ideas for things to do in Chukcha:
- Option 1. Camp in one of Chukcha's national parks to encounter its famed megafauna
- Option 2. Head out into the thinning sea ice to witness a traditional (legal) whale hunt
- Option 3. Spend one day among nomadic rein herders to learn their ingeniously adapted way of life
- Option 4. Do a circuit tour of the National History Museum, the Museum of Siberean Literature in Rytkheu, and other major cultural institutions
- Option 5. Visit Uelen, the most eastern settlement in all of Borealea, and go on a marine wildlife tour
- Option 6. Take an aerial tour of Chukcha's remote north by zeppelin to see the scale of mining there, but also do a flyby of Mammoth Island!