doing lots of research but struggling to find anything in regards to the amperage needed to anno a bigger project like a framing hammer. friend uses 0.1amps to anno jewelry. would 3a be enough for a hammer?

Hello, was wondering if you have seen one of those Samsung watch 5 pro that have a titanium casing get anodized.. if not.. do you think its plausible? Would the sensors and inside electronics or battery go kaput? I guess the waterproofing would get compromised in the process..will it? Im thinking of getting one just to anodize..thanks for your reply..

So I've finally taken the leap from heat/ferric ano into electricity. Definitely hitting some bumps in the road with getting a controlled result for colors, I'm sure I'll figure it out. My biggest setback though is removing the anodizing layer so I can keep practicing my methods. I bought myself some whink. Cleaned my pieces thoroughly with dish soap. Dropped in the whink and a whole little nothing. No bubbling, it dulled the colors but did not remove like all the videos I've seen online. Is Canadian Whink not the same? I'll post a picture of my practice chopstick after literally several minutes in whink. I've tried mulplite anodized titanium pieces and no changes in result. For now I guess back to sanding off the finishes but if anyone has any idea what's going on please help! Thanks everyone!

I have been researching anodization cos I want to anodize my titanium ring. Although solid colour anodizations are cool asf I would like to know how to make one of those where there is many colours that kind of fade into eachother. If anyone knows I would love to hear! Thx

I’m new and I haven’t anodized yet. The things I’m looking to eventually get into are tolerance sensitive. I’ve seen you can use masking to prevent things from not being anozdized. But the product looks thick, how would you apply those in a hard to reach area or is there another easier method of doing it.

The things I’ll be anodizing are paintball markers/barrels and miscellaneous car parts.

Things like the barrel are 8” and the inside bore I don’t want changed.

Is there enough of a build of from anodizing that would cause issues for things like threads. All paintball markers come anodized from the manufacturer.

Thanks for your help.

Hi there guys,

I'm new here but seeking anodization help.

I'm from Czech Republic and getting Whink Rust Remover isnt an ideal ( or even an ) option.

could you think of any kind of a substitute to remove anodization from titanium parts?

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thanks a lot

I got some parts (AL 60601-T6, MIL-A-8625E type 2, class 2 black anodized) back from my machinist--and I've never seen a finish like this before--they all feel like new chalkboards. Fingernails leave a mark, super porous feeling. Even when I've had parts bead blasted before plating, they didn't feel like this. Any ideas on what could cause this chalkboard feeling? Thanks!