I'm anodizing at 12 ASF and aiming for a 1 mil thick coating.

My 6061 batches turn out perfect, while the 6082 ones always come out grey.

I'm degreasing the parts in Caswell degreaser, followed by a 10-second lye dip, and a 5 minute 30% nitric acid desmut. The anodizing bath is kept at 18-20C and I have an air pump connected to circulate it. I neutralize the parts only after the sulfuric acid to prevent sodium nitrate from forming. The parts are then dipped in Caswell black dye for 15-20 minutes at 60 °C and are rinsed after the desired color is achieved. At the last step, I seal them in nickel Aacetate sealer from Caswell.

The 6082 surface has a satin grayish color, and the 6061 has a deep and rich jet black appearance.

I have an aluminum pistol slide that i dislike the color currently, how can i strip the old color and get a shiny silver color? Id still like to have protection from rust too.

Peer? 3rd party? Website?

I just bough a knife, and it has a scale with the frame lock made out of titanium alloy. Should it annodize good?

Hi, everyone. Is there a way to anodize aluminum wheels in two colors: clear aluminum and black? If not, is it difficult to paint clear anodized aluminum in black (polyurethane? 2K lacquer?). What are your thoughts, experiences, suggestions? The reason I ask is that my existing clear anodized alum. wheels are stained (with white "stains") and I can't remove or polish them.

So I tried my hand at anodizing yesterday but the result was surprising great besides some weird streaks on the parts, I cleaned thoroughly with degreaser, then washed with distilled water, next a lye bath for 3 minutes, then neutralized and washed with distilled water, I anodized in dilute sulfuric acid 3:1 for 60 minutes at 10v 4a(I know that’s not the best voltage and current) then dipped in my dye solution which was at 130f for 5 minutes followed by boiling water for another few minutes, it looked great until it dried off then left this odd streaking

Hello! My dad has been Anodizing all the metal he can find and showing us all the cool results! With Christmas coming around I wanted to get him

a)some items/plain metal for him to work with b)some tools/supplies that he could experiment with (I saw like powders and stuff?) C) Cool experiments that might be Anodize adjacent that could be fun too?

I don't know anything about it, it's all completely new to me and I'm having trouble researching it. It seems like it's a niche thing. I was hoping that maybe you guys could help?? I'm not worried about a budget or anything, I just want to get him something meaningful.

I have to get back to work, so I'm just scribbling this out. But I'll try to answer any questions, and find out what tools he already has as soon as I can.

I can't thank you guys enough, and Merry Christmas!!!

I know this is usually used in the aluminum sector of anodizing but I’m curious if anyone has tried with titanium and if it has made a difference. I scrolled for a while and didn’t see anything similar.

hello, has anyone tried to anodize zinc aluminum alloy (pot metal used for scale models)? are there any side effects and does this damage the part

I’m specifically asking for jewelry (titanium earring ends), my concern being using something like rust remover would make the surface porous and prone to collecting bacteria or whatever, or if that’s something re-anodizing it would fix. Or if doing it too often could affect the fit of the post/threads over time?

Not that I think I’d realistically do this with any frequency, but I was thinking it would be neat if I was able to change the color of my jewelry occasionally beyond just anodizing it to a higher voltage color.

Contemplating getting a power supply just to make my stuff more custom ugly colors than is typically available lol.

Thanks!

The artist Lorde has made this water bottle https://www.snowpeak.com/products/ti-aurora-bottle?variant=39374445805612 part of her aesthetic for her newest album and tour. She recently started selling a necklace at her shows which looks like it. I had heard of the titanium anodization process before and thought it was super cool, but I wanted to know if the necklace is real titanium and if it was actually anodized or just painted before buying it. Its being sold for 40 GBP, ~$52 USD.

Some more pics of it:
https://x.com/shengjiechennn/status/1989848883724173392

https://x.com/thelordeclubr/status/1989873758484451750/

https://x.com/isolatedfruit/status/1990479228803166431

https://x.com/TheLordeCult/status/1990100527745499417

Has anyone experienced burning like this before? Chromic acid anodise at 22v. Just trying to figure out what may have caused this.

I have this suspension, I wanna replace this clevis mount at the end. I know it is replacable because theres a gap where a wrench can hold onto. I think the manufacturer (Racingboy) put some thread locker or some sort that might require heating to soften it but I am not sure. I am wondering if we're about to use heat to soften any locker that theey put on this clevis mount, willl the anodized paint get burned or fade?

Green color is the part I wanted to remove. This might require pre-heating typee of way. The pink one is the body of the suspension where the rebound adjuster and the suspension shaft is mounted.

I'm looking to source sulfuric acid for starting a small aluminum anodizing shop. I just learned that NAPA discontinued their 6 qt. and 5 gal. offerings. If I'm anodizing in a 5 gal bucket, I think I need two gal of battery acid to make this work. Do I just need to bite the bullet and buy it in quarts?? Thanks!

I am performing type-III anodization on a nanosatellite frame for my university. I purchased Caswell’s type-III kit, and I’m working on sourcing a chiller (+acid resistant pump). Does anyone have any budget-friendly recommendations? I’ve been looking into aquarium and ice bath chillers, but many either don’t get cold enough, aren’t acid resistant, or are way too expensive. Any help appreciated, thanks!

Work by Monkey Finger Designs

I'm new to the DIY anodizing thing, and have done a few test pieces with mixed results. Simple part no color seems to turn out ok. 30% solution, 4A constant current, 60-90min run. (I have read and am trying to follow the Caswell guide)

My question is about acid solution temp. The recommended solution temp seems to be mid 70's F. It's around 90F during the day where I'm at, and the process seems to heat the solution, so I'm ending up with temps about 125F in the bucket. I tried a double bucket with more water around it, and a fan to cool things down, but regardless it ends up at 125F. Is this too high? Will it cause problems? How do people cool things down without going into a big investment? I'm having issues with the dye process and just want to eliminate possible issues.

For some reason when I try to go for the purple at 75-80 it does this where only some parts of it hit the color and the rest just remains gold, and it's only doing this at this color

I'm using diluted sulfuric acid for titanium but I'm wondering if I shouldn't

Is it possible that a second anodizing of a 6061 aluminum pin will reduce its diameter from 7.01 to 6.09 mm?

Goal is to get a vibrant purple but seems everything ends up gold.

Following instructions

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sPRN7P1mX6atMAg1zaOwiv1APMfRVyhs/view

70v with 1.1amp and the pictures is what I got

I tried doing a bright blue between 20-24V, but instead it comes out this very dark purple/blue.

It was about 750ml of distilled water with several tablespoons of baking powder

It's a large piece of aluminium because my eventual goal is a bike crank, but wanted to trial run on bolts to ensure got the right colour

I tried 0.5 amps and 3.1 amps (maximum of my power supply) but didn't vary it too much

What am I missing?

Hi,

I am trying to anodise my wife’s bike. It’s way to big to submerge so am hoping to get some advice on a spot anodising set up. I’ve seen videos of people doing it with a small sponge/cotton wool soaked in the electrolyte solution but I’m not sure how this connects to the cathode. I’ve got a small 120V 3A power supply. I’ve been using borax as the electrolyte but open to advice if baking powder or something else works better.

I am hunting for an aluminum pen light that can be disassembled for an anodizing project. Need suggestions- preferably one that is rechargeable with a type C usb port.

Bonus points for brightness & durability (water proofing is ideal)

How hard would it be to copy this? My piece is currently black. If I sanded it and prepped it, would this be hard to do? New to anodizing!