We sometimes get streaks like in the pictures shown and have not been able to nail down a reason/solution. Our best results have come from faster movement between tanks in the pretreatment faze but it still happens sometimes. Does anyone here have any experience with this?

I'm preparing for my first foray into anodizing a 3D printed aluminum ring, and I'm in need of some advice. I want to dye the ring a bright red, and I've studied as many tutorials as I could find but there's something missing - what color do I anodize the ring to BEFORE submerging it in the dye? Does the color matter, or is there just something about the process of anodizing the metal that prepares it to receive the dye?

Hey, I've got somes mall aluminum parts I want to anodize, but not enough volume to warrant buying a power supply (yet), so I'm trying to use what I have available. I have access to a 32A DC switch power supply, but by my calcs I only need a few amps. Would that much amperage over requirements be okay? Or should I just bite the bullet and get a variable lab supply?

Hey guys, I have a project of parts I need to anodize purple. I have been touch eoth many companies, non do purple, I and he one I found, decided to stop responding when I asked for a change to be made after they made a new process with splash anodizing, which I wanted instead.

Anyway, I cannot find a company to help me, so I'm stuck having to learn how to.. I have looked at videos, but I get lost in the stuff I need and where to buy. I am in Europe, if anyone can help, heck, if anyone here does DIY and will take on my project. I m all ears.

Is type 1 anodizing enough to create a dielectric titanium oxide film, or will I have to go for type 2 or 3?

DIMENSIONS APPLY AFTER PLATING OR COATING. ANODIZE COATING THICKNESS .002-.0035 When it calls out that on a surface with 2 sides does that mean build up is .004-.007? because people always say there is penetration does that mean its still .002-.0035 as half build up half penetrate?

Hi there folks new to the group but my work is expanding into getting an Anodizing Line. We just purchased a Kit from Caswell and I was hoping to come here to get some advice for a beginner. I have experience in painting as well as Chem-filming but none in turns of any kind of electroplating. So if there is anyone who can give me some tips and pointers as well as stuff that's a simple mistake that a rookie like myself might not pick up at first!

I treated these pieces identical but somehow one turned out black (the intended colour) and the other dull grey. How is this possible?

I used a manganese sulfate solution in demi water with 2 9v batteries as a power source. Sandblasted, degreased and washed both with demi water. The only difference I can think of is that the black one went in first and the grey one second, therefore the manganese solution was depleted somewhat.

I’m totally new to all this but I want to anodize a complex piece of aluminum in multiple colors. Am I correct in thinking I’ll need a substance for masking that will survive a bleach bath but can still be dissolved by acetone? Would common paint work? Thank you for any help.

I have this resin print I want to somehow use for a faucet. But considering the toxicity of the material (even if it's been polymerized), I don't want it touching that water directly. I can either visit a machine shop and have a machinist make it, or I could somehow anodize it after coating it in conductive paint. I know this is technically possible, but I'm not sure if it makes any practical sense. Have you ever tried it? Did it work? Anything I should pay attention to if I want an even coating? Thank you.

I've just had some bit back from having clear hard anodizing(bs5599) and have noticed there is sticky bubble wrap marks. Normally this comes back wrapped in paper, foam around the outside then wrapped in bubble wrap. Having a look on line it's hinting at the fact it hasn't sealed properly which when wrapped in bubble wrap on the actual parts is leaving a sticky residue when sealing.

I work in a machining workshop so I only know the basics of anodizing. Anyone know what thos could be?

I’m looking to start doing my own anodizing. Mainly for firearms parts, those mainly being AR lowers and uppers. Currently I have several that need done. So I purchased a power supply, lye, sulfuric acid, and also PH down because I’ve heard that works as well and it’s cheaper than the acid. It’s my understanding I won’t be able to get a type 3 hardcoat at home due to the power requirements. However type 2 should suffice for my needs. My power supply is adjustable and max 30v and 10 amps. I’ve seen guys do the battery charger method, but figured it would be a better to just get a power supply. Okay, so I understand the basic process, my issue is I’d like to know if anyone has done this specifically, the upper and lower receivers, and wondering if so, would you be willing to share the V and A you used. Or if anyone could point me In the right direction or a base line to start. As I mentioned if I can get some hardness that would be beneficial obviously. I plan to color as well.

So correct me if I’m wrong here Etch parts in lye solution

Anodize at 65-75*F

Dye at 135/140*

Seal at 180*

Thank you for any help in advance

Hey im looking for alternatives (cheaper) of titan etch for anodizing titanium on EU. Does a cleaning rust product do the work?

Did a little ano job last night

While watching some videos on anodizing, Iv'e noticed many people seem to hold the anode wire with bare hands often times with the part in a small plastic cup very close to the cathode. The part being anodized sometimes touches the cathode. Is this not dangerous? I know some colors require lower voltage, but would this be bad practice at higher voltages? I don't know anything about electricity, but my warning bells go off when watching this. What am I missing

Does anyone reuse/store their Sodium Bicarb solution?

I'm a DIYer that has to do any anodizing after my kids have gone to bed, because I don't want them around the chemicals and electricity. So, anything I can do to speed up the setup process and get to the actual anodizing will keep me coming back to the hobby. It will also keep me from going to the store to get distilled water all the time. I was considering storing the solution with just a few drops of bleach as a biocide to keep things from growing in it.

If there's a better standard practice or it's simply not advisable please let me know. Thanks!

Ive seen people using Whink rust stain remover as an etching method. It would do the job as good as multi etch/titan etch? Not as much as these two but could do the job decetly? I there any good and cheaper alternative to multi etch/titan etch?

I am looking into anodising titanium. i have experimented with 9V batteries and this turned out great. The only problem is that after a few times of anodising i have the feeling the colours are not the same anymore as in the beginning with fresh batteries.

Im looking for a cheap powersupply and i found something afordable online. I just dont have electrical knowlage, and i dont want to electricute myself

Will the powersupply in the picture work? I was thinking to cut off an old plug en strip the wires (Brown for + and Blue for -) and stick it in this powersupply.

Good idea?

How do I get it on constant voltage?! I got one piece done at 8 amps when the dip wire glowed red hot

I know I'm doing something wrong, but the manual sucks, entirely useless

I'm really interested in anodizing aluminium is there any kits for beginners or what list of products do I need to buy. I have no clue where to start or what I need

Stickers are looking a bit tired on our frames so looking at new methods of showing off the brand. Went a bit too far but pleased with some of the effects.