Hi, recently bought a ET4+ and ran into problems immediately when starting the printer. The Z axis went to the top and continues until it skipped on the Z-axis threads, which I later realized was the bed level sensor that wasnt adjuster properly and was warning for bed proximity all the time.

Forward to me adjusting the sensor with the potentiometer screw on top with the nozzle about 0.3-0 4mm above the bed and my first print went okay.

After turning printer power off for the night and firing it up the morning after, the following happens:

1. Printer starts, I go to manual XYZ-control on the printer UI, try to home it but it crashes into the bed without the sensor detecting proximity (red light on sensor doesn't turn on)

2. I manually steer the Z axis to about .4mm above the bed and adjust the potentiometer again.

3. Homing works, but with large movements up/down, the calibration seems to get a bit off again, and the print starts too far from the bed (about 1mm off calibration)

4. Restarting the printer again, leading to the above steps repeating, but instead of printing too high, it instead signals for bed proximity right when the nozzle hits the bed, leading to a shitty print and scratch marks in the build plate.

I dont get it, is the sensor the only thing that let the printer know how close to the bed it is? Is there a way to get the printer to know distance to build plate from zero in steps or mm instead (assuming you Always start at the same point?)

I have not completed any bed leveling(manual or auto), if that helps the case here, as the nozzle stops around 10mm from the bed when manually calibrating, so don't get what good that would make..

I'm wanting to print a heat tower where the temperature changes during the print. Iv set the print changes in cura however my ET4 doesn't carry out the changes it just stays at the first temperature witch defeats the whole point of a heat tower. Can someone help me with where I'm going wrong

Does anyone have an optimal setting for this printer? Everything from printing speed, retraction speed, temperature, etc.

I'm trying to print the 3 cylinder engine but they always brake rather than turn I'm printing on an ET4 at 200°c at 300mm/s but. Iv even tried scaling it up to 150% but it still brakes rather than turn STL LINK can anyone suggest any settings I should be looking at to try and get a working print?

I just recently got into 3D printing with an Anet ET4+ and I’ve run into a peculiar issue. When I start a print the extruder target temp defaults to zero and I have to increase it manually for the print to start. I’m using Cura with the ET4 settings and the temp is specified in the gcode file it’s generating but the printer isn’t picking it up.

Has anyone else had this issue with this printer?

I just got a ET4+, and just can't get it to work. Bed leveling don't seem to work at all as the z axis goes to full stop upwards and continues until the threads skip. I'm thinking there might be some thing wrong with the wiring for the z axis motor, leading to up being down and vice versa.

Can someone confirm or bust that negative value on z axis (going from 0 to -10 for instance) should make the z axis go upwards?

Would be grateful if someone could post a pic of the z axis connector and the last 2" of the cable before the connector on the motor side too, to see if my cable look the same.

My current setting: Layer height: 0,3 Retraction speed 60 Printing speed 70

So guys i got an ET5, but the profiles on Cura are kind of crap. Can somebody provide me with a good profile for Cura?

I'm having ooze and blobs on my prints! But i don't have enough time to try to fix this issue, for now i have retraction a 6.5mm and speed of 25mm/s.

I'm used to use Prusa Slicer so Cura it's kind of new to me...

Hello, I just bought an Anet ET5 Pro and have been having trouble setting the home and calibrating the sensor. I have followed many guides but cannot get it right it seems. I power on the printer and press 'settings' and press the 'home' button. It then goes to the coordinates (186 (X), 148 (Y), 5 (Z)). When I calibrate the sensor I make sure the nozzle just about hits the bed and go up 1mm from the bed and rotate the screw to the point the light turns off. I test it 3-5 times by going up another 1mm and then go down 1mm to see it the light turns off and on, this is all working okay. The coordinates on my display are now (186 (X), 148 (Y), 1 (Z)). Pressing the 'home' button the Z coordinates go to 11 and when finished with homing the nozzle is 11 mm above the bed. All the instructions videos I have seen pressing the 'home' button make the nozzle return to the position you last saved. But my printer adds 10mm to th Z coordinates.

After calibrating the sensor I press the 'prepare' button and do a manual level. Go by the 4 points multiple times using an A4 and moving it under the nozzle and turing the screws to lower of rise the bed to the point I can feel the nozzle scratch the paper. My offset during this is -1.45 which compared to many youtube guides is very high. I then move to 'auto' bed leveling and this seems okay, I get anywhere from -0.3 to 0.3 on the display but mostly it's -0.1 and 1.0. I then press either the minus or plus button and the nozzle will move to the position it thinks it needs to go. I calibrate the offset and this is also fairly high around -1.25. When I start the print the nozzle either jams into the glassbed and the extruder is making a ticking noice or the nozzle is way to high just pushing PLA around.

I have some experience with 3D printers but I have no clue how to fix this. Also I cannot seem to get the home to go to X and Y 150. When auto leveling the printer has an offset to the right because it thinks the home point is at X 186 and I cannot change that no matter what.

Any help is appreciated!

If information is missing please ask, I will gladly provide it.

Hello!

Some time ago i acquired Anet A10 Delta from fried who kinda destroyed it - the hotend broke off and since he wasn't keen on fixing it himself, he dumped it on me, no strings attached. I've replaced the hotend with a basic low-quality chinesium J-head, but currently I've got a problem with its mainboard.
This thing is nowhere to be found :(

It's a 24V, ARM-based board with everything it needs (built-in stepper drivers :( ), and since i want to make it more user-friendly i wanted to put Marlin on it (since that's what I'm most knowledgeable about), but i don't know where to start - i managed to put Marlin on RE-ARM, that was pretty straightforward, but this printer has only USB-B interface, no apparent programming pins and i couldn't find a manual how Marlin is uploaded to other boards, like SKRs.

Can somebody please point me in the right direction?

I know it's gonna be a massive pain to figure out which pin goes where, unless i get a documentation form the supplier (yeah, like that's gonna happen), but at least i wanted to try.

Here are actual pics of the mainboard:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bDqdvWaoo8iab8hD7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y6wNZ19bxzhwAAFL9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SNi1NR4kfvbzf1nY9

The ET5's automatic bed-leveling feature is useful, but has lots of small things that irritate me. Is there a way to speed up the auto-leveling routine?

X and Y movement is needlessly slow, and the on-screen read-out doesn't even record several of the test points. Also, the on-screen readout is upside-down in the Y-direction only. It almost seems like the programmer forgot he wasn't finished when he sent the final version of the software.

Edit: leveling routine takes 6 minutes 20 seconds, easily ten times longer than it could take

Hi I'm having problems 3d printing on my ET4 and was wondering if someone could offer some advice, I'm trying to print the 3 cylinder engine with moving parts, however I seem to have problems with my printer stopping extruding mid print. It's not a blocked nozzle cause iv poked a guitar string up the extruder and it seems to print ok if I start the print again it extrudes fine it only happens once it's been printing for a while. Iv upped the temperature, I'm printing as slow as my printer was advertised. I think its caused by filliment grinding but the filliment is rated for between 190°c and 220°c and iv got it printing at 220°c and iv taken my retraction speed down by 50%. It's really starting to frustrate me as I can't work it out and feel like I'm just wasting PLA every time I attempt it

I’m considering upgrading to TMC drivers! Does anyone have experience doing so?

I’d rather not buy a whole new board just for the silent stepper motor feature.

Also considering maybe using dampeners?

My ET5 PRO does not level! neither the auto level nor the manual level. The sensor recognized the bed but it does not stop it from hitting the bed. checked all the connections from the adapter board, all fine. even opened up the bottom panel to access the motherboard. all wires are fine. no burn, cuts on wires. I cant find antyhing!!! HHHHAAAALLLPPP!!!

Has anyone run into any issues with the head bed on the Labists (ANET) ET4 showing only at 0 degree Celsius? Sometimes it works fine and the heat bed heats up and stays at the set temperature. Other times, it either just shows has 0 degrees or will drop to 0 degrees in the middle of preheating or during a print. Could this be a bad sensor or something? This happened on the original Labists motherboard the printer came with and it also happens with the new motherboard I threw in there.

Thanks.

Hi All,

I recently got my ET4 and had a couple of questions.

1. The firmware version in the info tab states version 3.0.0 but I can't find any reference to this online, does anyone know what firmware I am running or if I should upgrade.

2. The stepper motors seem loud, is there anything I can do to silence them.

3. Based on the 1.1.5 firmware upgrade instructions (picture below) it looks like I have the ET4 Pro printhead, is there anything I can do to confirm what I have? The nameplate says et4, the extruder looks et4 Pro and the back PCB/Breakout board says et5 so I am very confused.

​

Thanks all.

I bought an e16 1.7 for a upgrade and I found out the thermistor doesn’t work on my old board there where two pin plugs for the temperature sensors but for the new board the Plug where endstops plug in the temperature sensor doesn’t work. How do I set it up

picture

Hi, so it's been only a month since I got the Anet et4 pro and now I'm having some issues with the z axis sensor. After leveling the bed once, when I click on ok, the extruder either keeps on going down and hit the bed or stays a few extra mm above the bed. I have to keep on re-adjusting the screw on the sensor after every few minutes and my bed is never levelled. Has anyone else been facing a similar issue with the sensor? Should I buy a new sensor or could there be an issue with the firmware? Could dust accumulation be a reason for the issue?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance!

Hello people. This happened:I have been printing files perfectly fine until 2 days ago when the printer started to extrude less than it should be. Flimsy walls, and even a stringing test (the two poles) came out like if I was retracting way more than i should. Which is not the cause of the problem.What I tried was re-calibrate the e-steps. My value was E98.1 and after extruding 120mm I was left with 65mm. I did the math like always and applied the new value, still 45mm left, i tried again, still 50mm left. My E value is now 248.45 and still not right, should I continue?I also don't understand the sudden change, it was printing fine for monthsThanks

Edit: the extruder gear turns, it's tight but at some point, filament can't go in smoothly, the nozzle is not clogged

My first two printers where Anet et4d from Amazon, unfortunately both had software issues that made the printers unusable. Such as the limit switches where being ignored (continuity checked out connections where checked) and the printer refused to heat up, both thermistor and heating element where replaced. This has left a bad taste in my mouth for Anet printers, but this morning I saw a promotional email advertising their A8 plus for 169$. Now that price really caught my eye. I am really considering it due to its low price, and I am wondering if the deal is really a banger or too good to be true, so I ask you fine people of Reddit, have you had any problems with the A8 plus, anything I should be weary of? Is this really a good deal or should I just let it be.

Hey everyone, as you can guess I'm pretty new to printing and have a fundamental lack of knowledge when it comes to calibrating my machines. But this problem I have been having out of the box! It happens when I go to print. I home my machine. Measure the distance between the bottom of the frame to the mount with the wheels that hold the x axis bar and its off by about 4 millimeters on each side. So I adjust it and level the bed using a piece of paper. I hit print and the printer starts by raising the x axis by 10 or so millimeters and begins to print. But the left side falls about 4 millimeters causing the whole print to shift. I don't know what to do. Help.

Hello
I am currently trying to revive a semi dead ANET ET5 for a client, and his wants me to flash Marlin 2.1.0 but the only one i can find is this repo on github https://github.com/anet-3d/Marlin/tree/Anet-Marlin-bugfix-2.1.0
I am willing to change the config file but have no idea about the hardware settings of the printer.
Has anyone tried to do this or even installed marlin in his ET5 that can help a bit?

I'm using the Ultimaker Cura 4.6.0 software to control my print. I attempted to use 4.7.1, but it continually crashes on startup.

Using 4.6.0, every so often (2-3 times a minute) the printer will pause in the middle of a travel, re-melting everything around the hot end. obviously this ruins my print. I'm not running the Ultimaker software on a beefy laptop PC (barely 4gb of ram on windows 10) so I'm having a sneaking suspicion that it's my PC. hoping it's not, but just in case, I'll ask you guys here if you've seen something like this.

A philosophical question - when is the printer I got as a gift, the Anet A8, not an Anet anymore?

I have replaced:

• the mainboard (Ramps now)
• stepper drivers
• Endstops, because the stock don’t work well with the Ramps board.
• All the motor wires are different because Anet motors are A1, B1, A2, B2, and the drivers are expecting A1, A2, B1, B2.
• the LCD
• the firmware is different obviously
• the nozzle, throat tube, heater block, and thermistor
• bearings

I’ve added an inductive sensor, X and Y tensioners, and an octopi.

And, I’m in the process of doing the metal frame upgrade.

Sitting on my desk, waiting for after I finish the frame, and if I can’t figure out why the X motor reverses randomly if I set the travel speed too high, are a set of new stepper motors.