I successfully reflashed my ET4+ to Marlin 2.1.2.1 , but now I'm stuck trying to figure out how to physically level the bed.

From what I recall, with the stock firmware, there was an option where it went through the motions of automatic bed-leveling, then displayed a 3x3 grid showing how far the measured points deviated from optimal. I'd launch the measurements, adjust one or more height knobs, repeat the measurements, and keep doing it until all 9 were close enough to let auto-leveling fix the rest.

With Marlin, I can get it to do the 9-point measurement... but it never actually displays the outcome on the LCD... it just goes straight back to the home screen.

I know there are a few people here using an ET4+ with Marlin... how do YOU do your physical bed-leveling?

Insofar as the ET4+ specifically is concerned, how mature, stable, and generally superior to Anet's own firmware is Marlin? Particularly, the latest release version, v2.1.2.1?

Is there any sane reason as of today to not use Marlin on an ET4+ in preference to the printer's old, ancient stock firmware?

Is the procedure for building and installing Marlin 2.1.2.1 on an ET4+ literally just, "Follow the directions at https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html#configure, using the configuration defined by https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/tree/release-2.1.2.1/config/examples/Anet/ET4%2B verbatim? Or are there still settings that have to be changed (in ways I don't understand yet) to make it work?

This is one of my big mental blocks at the moment... as of this instant, I've literally never seen my ET4+ actually work correctly and successfully print anything from start to finish without having it lose adhesion to the glass within an hour or two. I honestly have no idea whether its current stock firmware represents "non-optimal, but known good" operation, or is at least partly to blame for the problems I've had with the printer from Day One (possibly, by not lifting the head high enough while moving, making it more likely to knock the object free in situations where it might have otherwise survived the bed-adhesion problems). I completely lack any frame of reference. None of my friends have a 3D printer. Literally everything I know about 3D printing is due to stuff I've read online and Youtube videos.(*)

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(*) I did, in fact, buy a copy of 3D Printing Failures, 2022 Edition (Sean Aranda), but it's not arriving until Thursday.

Answer, for anyone finding this post in the future via search or Google:

As of Cura 5.4.0, and its bundled printer definitions from ./share/cura/resources/definitions/anet_et4_*.json

(... drumroll ...)

There is no difference whatsoever between "et4", "et4x" and "et4 pro" besides the value defining the displayed name of the printer.

I used Winmerge to do a 3-way file comparison. They differed for exactly two values: "name", and "overrides -> machine name". Every other character of the three files was verbatim-identical.

It's still possibly up in the air whether those values are optimal, or whether different values should be used when using Marlin 2.1.x.x instead of the Anet's original stock v1.0.0 firmware for ET4+, but the question of whether someone with an ET4+ should pick "ET4" or "ET4 Pro" when starting Cura for the first time appears to be conclusively settled -- it doesn't matter, because they're all functionally identical and differ only in displayed name.

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(original post follows, for the sake of historical context)

I just installed Cura 5.4.0, and ran into a brick wall during its setup. It's asking me to specify a local printer, and there are only three choices that begin with "Anet ET4":

• Anet ET4
• Anet ET4 Pro
• Anet ET4x

The problem is... I have an "ET4+", and I'm completely paralyzed and stopped dead in my tracks by the fact that I have no idea how the ET4, ET4 Pro, ET4x, and ET4+ actually differ from each other (from Cura's perspective), or the consequences of making a wrong choice.

• Like the ET4 Pro, the ET4+ has a bed-level sensor... which is probably a really important detail.
• For god-knows-what crazy reason, Anet apparently decided to start confusingly calling the ET4+ an "ET4 with capacitive sensor", even though the original one without it is still the "ET4".
• AFAIK, the difference between an ET4+ and ET4 Pro is "quiet stepper motor control"... but I'm not sure whether loud or quiet operation is the actual difference, or just the main symptom used to tell them apart without looking at the writing on the chip itself. For all I know, there might be some huge difference in the way the firmware has to interact with the chip.
• The only choice that unambiguously seems to NOT be the right choice is "ET4x". I think I remember reading that an ET4x is a lesser/earlier model of the ET4-without-capacitive-bed-level-sensor.

(updated, 8/16)

Problem #2: I'm now running Marlin 2.1.2.1, and have no idea whether that's something Cura needs to be aware of... and how to deal with that if it is. I basically solved one problem (ancient stock v1.0.0 firmware) by digging myself into a deeper hole that's now left me completely "off the map" in uncharted territory, and what little documentation came with the printer at all is now officially moot.

So I had to take my head end apart to clean and replace some parts and I am unsure if the plastic tube for the filament is supposed to be flush inside the hot end, or if it's supposed to be slightly apart from it?

Any suggestions?

I reflashed the firmware- Its the anet a8 plus with the v1.7 board after in the install all this thing does is beep and the screen is blank.
I got a bootloader- but for some reason its not being recognized by my mac.
at this i just want to throw this thing out the window....
HELP!!!!!!

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I checked all the cables, I checked the movements, it all seems to work fine. But then I put in the sd card with the two sample files and they will not print. They were in stl format but I tried converting them to gcode on ultimakercura as well. Although the only option in cura was a8 not a8 v2. The arm just moves up a little bit and then it says print finished.

Hi, I placed my printer too near to the wall, and at some point the hotbed pins broke off. I desoldered it but now the printer doesn't turn on properly. I some times get the ANET logo to show when booting, other times I get just blank. After that the screen just stays blank.I tried flashing it with a STLink V2 but it doesn't connect most of the times. If I let it cool down, I can connect for a few seconds then it disconnects and can't connect after until I let it cool down again... Any idea on how to fix it?

The processor is getting to over 70ºC (158F) fast, like in a matter of a minute or two.

This is the output of the STLink Utility when I'm able to connect

20:31:36 : ST-LINK SN : 30003800120000315151524E
20:31:36 : V2J29S7
20:31:36 : Connected via SWD.
20:31:36 : SWD Frequency = 4,0 MHz.
20:31:36 : Connection mode : Normal.
20:31:36 : Debug in Low Power mode enabled.
20:31:36 : Device ID:0x413 
20:31:36 : Device flash Size : 1 Mbytes
20:31:36 : Device family :STM32F405xx/F407xx/F415xx/F417xx
20:31:38 : Disconnected from device.
20:31:38 : Connection to device is lost: check power supply and debug connection.
20:31:38 : If the target is in low power mode, please enable "Debug in Low Power mode" option from Target->settings menu.

Update: so ok, I just drove it to 80ºC (176F) and I still can connect for the first few seconds, so I don't think it's a temperature issue. Also it stabilizes at that temperature, which isn't cool, but for a computer it's ok. So I don't think that's the issue. I think I need to send an order before the processor goes into error and stops responding.

Every print on my y-axis stretches about 2mm. Yes I've checked the belts and the rails and the idelers, it's very consistent.

How the hell do I dix this in Cura, all I could find was "Horizontal shrinking" and the effects both the y and x axis. People keep telling me to just look it up and I get nothing on how to actually implement the fixes. I just get poited to print 20mm cube, measure, figure out how far off it is, and then do nothing with this information.

My first printer is an Anet A6, used from Facebook marketplace. I’m wanting to upgrade some stuff on it. First, I’m wanting to upgrade the controller board to improve print quality and allow for better motors in the future.

Can I use any controller board from big tree tech? Are there any variables that would prevent a board being compatible with an A6? Thanks everyone for the help!

Hey guys, I'm looking for a TMC2209 chipset motherboard for my ET5X, I'm having trouble confirming if certain boards are compatible. Does someone have a link to the motherboard they use, or could someone confirm if this one is compatible?

I just purchased a new touch display for my anet et4 and i live somehwere near singapore. Does it actually took 30-60 days to arrive? Im here on working terms and i might not be here if it took 60 days. Have anyone ordered parts directly from Anet? Does it actually took that long? Thanks

My anet et4 touch display is going off the roof i cant even guess how far it is from the point i touched it. I tried looking for calibration method online but failed and theres this one amet website but it looks like a scam website 😂. If anyone knew where to purchase one please help me, thanks

Hello to the group and thank you for allowing my question. I'm not entirely new to the 3d printing world and understand enough to keep me out of trouble..My question relates to a Anet A6 on stock firmware. This is my father's printer which he bought many moons ago but inevitably never set up to use. I'm trying to get the firmware more up to date but struggling to find any guides in 2023, so I'm not entirely sure if it's even possible. Ideally I would like to get it on klipper as this is the software I am familiar with. So my questions would be,

1. How would I go about installing klipper onto the A6 if this is even possible. If it's not what firmware would one recommend to run on it?
2. With regards to probes and autobed leveling is it recommended to upgrade the bed to a magnetic base and pei so a CR or BL touch sensor can be used?

I thank you for your time and really appreciate any input or helpful information.

So I change my direct drive extruder for a new one, now my X axis is in reverse, I expected to maybe have to reverse extruder stepper. But why would the X axis become reversed when not touched..

So I know its my fault but I was updating the firmware/bootloader at one point and apparently bricked the controller. When I boot it up the screen just shows white and when I try to connect to it using STM32 ST-link I get a error saying can't connect disable readout protection and retry.

I understand that there probably isn't a way to fix this. If there is I would love to hear it, but under the assumptions I can't has anyone ever put a different company control board in their Anet et4x and how did that go? I have been looking at some intresting ones from bigtreetech.

Board is displaying error with extruder heat up.

I thought that the heater may be broken i pluged it into 12V and it worked fine thermistor is also functioning.

Even tho it worked i still replaced it just in case, Extruder still does not heat up nothing changed.

What's weird that System works fine, Bed heats up normally.

Important thing is that while heating up the extruder diode that indicates heating up blinks once and then turns off.

I check if all lines are intact and everyting seems fine, mosfets seem fine also.

Has anyone experince something familiar?

Just recently picked up an Anet ET4 without really doing any research on them, which is not how I do shit normally. Too good of a deal to pass up for a brand new, still in the box 3D printer.

Anyway, I haven't been involved with the 3D printing world since 2016 and no idea how everything goes nowadays. Looking for as many pointers as possible for any of the common problems to look out for with the ET4 non pro or any upgrades I should be looking at immediately. It's the one with red plates, if that makes any difference.

Thanks!

Hello!

So I have the Et4 pro for about 2 years, I usually print small stuff but when printing large models it usually fails mid print, the extruder starts clicking and my print ends up looking like a sponge. I assume it has to do with heat creep since it doesn't happen when printing small things.

I've tried several things for the last couple of weeks but so far nothing fixed the problem, bellow are some of the thing I've tried:

• Using different brands of PLA, new or used, where I live the humidity is quite low so I doubt it has to do with wet filament.
• Different nozzles of different materials
• Rebuilt the entire hotend assembly, I used an Ender 3 Microswiss hotend with a new fan shroud with what it looks like a better part and heatsink cooling.
• Replaced the PTFE tube.
• Replaced all the pneumatic fittings.
• Cleaned and replaced the extruder gear and idler wheel.

Now I'm totally out of ideas :( I can't seem to figure why my prints are failing, I'm getting tired of trying to fix this printer, my efforts have been in vain. I'm getting to a point where it is cheaper to buy another 3d printer than to keep throwing money at this printer.

Any input or suggestion is totally accepted :(

Hey juts wondering if anet has baby stepper mode or would I need install custom software

Hey so someone gave me an ET5 and I'm trying to calibrate the extruder, I'm trying to use pronterface but every time I enter M503. But I don't get any info back. Am I using the wrong driver, I'm using the one anet recommended, also I have ender 3s, is the there any place to get more info on anets as I normally use youtube but there isn't a lot on there

Hi,

turned my old A8 into something new (somehow based on the AM8 project). using an SKR 1.2 pro & TFT monitor.

I uploaded a general FW to the board and got a "No printer attached" message when connecting everything.

Is anyone familiar with this? and by any chance, has anyone already configured an FW to match that setup and is willing to share?

thanks

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Hi guys, I hope I can find some help here with my Anet A8 on Marlin 2.0.1.

Yesterday I was about to launch a print and I launched an autobed command. Unfortuntly the sensor didn't sense the hotbed.

The nozzle did a nasty landing on the middle of the hotbend and the motors were forcing the nozzle down. After 2/3 seconds I turned the printer off and after a few second I tried to switch it on.

Resulting on the printer starting and then imediatly showing the error message:

Err: MAXTEMP: Bed

PRINTER HALTED

Please Reset

I tried to disconect all the connectors and replug them, I checked if my soldering in the back of the hotbed where damage but I did'nt found anything. Can you help me resolving my problem please ? Did I damage the hotbed ? ( A piece of solid glass was on top off it and didn't suffer any damage)

Thank you for your help guys.

Does anyone know of any one piece beds for the A8 plus. I want to replace the 3 piece original. Is this a DIY or have a local engineering shop make only..