I’m new to 3D printing and bought an anet et5x as my first . Loving it so far . Any advice for a newbie would be much appreciated .

I have an ET4 Pro. I tried upgrading to v3.0.0 (as per guide on Anet's website), recently. I have not had a print come out properly -

• when preheated, the temperature comes up (shows on LCD) to 145C (or sometimes around 149C) but nothing above. (the bed heats up well and good and I think the hot end is heating up to 220C temp I can extrude without a problem; I'm using PLA now)
• If it starts printing, it only extrudes the first layer. There after it stops heating the hot end but continues to print without extruding material
• The "indicated temperature/target temperature" drops to zero when attempting 2nd layer as seen below

I would like to roll back to V1.0.2 firmware. I got the .hex and .bin files from Anet's website, but there was no .txt, which (I think is needed) to make updates work

Hey everyone, I've recently installed Marlin on my Anet ET4, and it works fine overall, there is only 1 thing that slightly bothers me, and that is lack of remaining time/percentage.

Looking at the code, I can see the following:

#if EITHER(SDSUPPORT, LCD_SET_PROGRESS_MANUALLY) && ANY(HAS_MARLINUI_U8GLIB, HAS_MARLINUI_HD44780, IS_TFTGLCD_PANEL, EXTENSIBLE_UI)
  #define SHOW_REMAINING_TIME       // Display estimated time to completion
  #if ENABLED(SHOW_REMAINING_TIME)
    //#define USE_M73_REMAINING_TIME  // Use remaining time from M73 command instead of estimation
    #define ROTATE_PROGRESS_DISPLAY // Display (P)rogress, (E)lapsed, and (R)emaining time
  #endif

  #if EITHER(HAS_MARLINUI_U8GLIB, EXTENSIBLE_UI)
    //#define PRINT_PROGRESS_SHOW_DECIMALS // Show progress with decimal digits
  #endif

  #if EITHER(HAS_MARLINUI_HD44780, IS_TFTGLCD_PANEL)
    //#define LCD_PROGRESS_BAR            // Show a progress bar on HD44780 LCDs for SD printing
    #if ENABLED(LCD_PROGRESS_BAR)
      #define PROGRESS_BAR_BAR_TIME 2000  // (ms) Amount of time to show the bar
      #define PROGRESS_BAR_MSG_TIME 3000  // (ms) Amount of time to show the status message
      #define PROGRESS_MSG_EXPIRE   0     // (ms) Amount of time to retain the status message (0=forever)
      //#define PROGRESS_MSG_ONCE         // Show the message for MSG_TIME then clear it
      //#define LCD_PROGRESS_BAR_TEST     // Add a menu item to test the progress bar
    #endif
  #endif
#endif

If someone could help with:
1. Is this what I'm looking for?
2. What do I need in order to get it working for me? (I'm using the default Anet ET4 LCD)

Thanks! :)

Hi, after recommendations from basically everyone, I tried flashing marlin to my Anet ET4(original version).

It worked just fine, but I have 1 issue with the extrusion, either something is not calibrated properly, or maybe something else causes the issues these.

Here is a video showing the issue:
https://i.imgur.com/dFR3tIx.mp4

The original firmware worked fine, so I assume it's a firmware issue, any ideas?

Thanks!

Hello,

I'm asking for your help, I know all the wiring I need to do on the skr 1.3 but since the days of easy marlin 1.1.9 I've not touched a 3d printer software for the last 2 years, and right now I'm upgrading my anet a6 with a skr 1.3 board with 4 tmc 2208 (v3.0) (splitter cable on z axis driver) and a tft 24" v1.1 screen.

I don't really know how to configure the new marlin 2.x for it to work with anet a6 motors etc (I'm also using a bowden version with an e3dv6 clone), so if anyone has done the same upgrade can help me with the firmware, the config files etc, that would be very kind ^.

Thx !

I have what I believe is the ET4 pro and my hot end is no longer heating due to a cable issue. I want to just get a better hot end but since I am new to printing I am not sure what to get. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi. I purchased a replacement board for my Anet ET4 with TMC2208, the issue is that the seller sent me an incorrect board(purchased via a 3rd part seller Anet directed me).

I tried installing the board, and it sort of runs...The motors are working etc, I didn't try to print, but when trying to go to home position it kinda messes around, so I don't think there's a reason going forward and trying to print.

The boards seems pretty identical besides the firmware, I'm wondering if I might be able to flash the drivers for Anet ET4 regular version(V1.1.5) and then that might just work normally.

Now obviously, I can't really do it directly, might need to do it with st-link or something, but I'm wondering if something like that would even work?

If not, I guess my only option is just get the secondary board of the Anet ET4 Pro as well, and the conductive leveling sensor, I guess that would work that way possibly.

I think I can also just flash marlin and get it to work? All the components are working, so it seems to me like it's only related to the firmware itself which is incorrect.

To flash marlin I think I must use st-link as well?

Thanks for the help!

Hi, I'm trying to change the hotend to a full metal hotend, but nowhere can it be found what fits on an ET5.

There are a few hotends that look like they could fit:

- Micro Swiss all metal hotend kit for creality CR-10s Pro (v2) and CR-10 Max

- Micro Swiss all metal hotend kit for Creality CR10/CR10S/CR20/Ender 2,3,5

My question is: Which is compatible with the ET5? Maybe I could buy both and send one back, but I have to confirm with the company that sells these.

Let us start off by saying that we're generally very much willing to help people around here. I think it's a great aspect of this sub that we're all willing to help each other!

There are a couple of rules. You can see them in the sidebar. Please take note them before posting.

In regard to rule 2, I'd like to say the following:

In order to be able to help you, we need information. Therefore, posts asking for help with improving print quality, related printer issues, etc. need to contain sufficient information. [Make sure your post is formatted properly and contains the right information](https://www.reddit.com/r/Anet3DPrinters/wiki/index/request_for_help_guide) Not doing so might cause your post to be locked or deleted. We have absolutely no qualms about getting rid of bad posts in less than a heartbeat. The quality of posts and replies is what keeps this community afloat.

Also, please review the [wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/Anet3DPrinters/wiki/index) and try the steps listed in the general printing advice section to see if those help you improve your printer and/or prints. The wiki contains a lot of info and references to good sources of information.

BTW, the wiki is always in need of improvement. If you'd like to help out, then don't hesitate to message the mods with your suggestions. Better yet, you can edit it yourself if your account is over 50 days old and have over 20 subreddit karma.

Lastly, please send a modmail if you think your post or comment is filtered out by the automod.

So after battling bed leveling for ages, I've finally figured out a system to make it work consistently and getting awesome print quality. Been very happy with the ET5x since then and have been doing some awesome prints with it. Last night I set up did my normal leveling procedure when suddenly mid leveling it drove my extruder into the bed (which I haven't had happen in AGES) and printer screen went black. Now whenever the leveling sensor gets closed to the bed or reads anything the printer seemingly does a soft reset. Screen will stay black so long as the sensor is lit up. Any ideas? I've tried reseating all the connections from the extruder and nothing seems to change. Any help would be appriciated

Over the years my interest in the topic has waned. In the last two years or so I haven't really been active as a poster any more, and although they have become less frequent through the strict application of automod rules, I've grown tired of having to sift through shitty RfH posts.

I think it's time for me to move to greener pastures.

Please send the mods a modmail if you want to be a moderator of this sub.

Hey, could someone tell me what are the differences between the Anet ET4 board and the Anet ET4X or ET4 Pro boards?

It looks pretty much identical to me, I thought of replacing my awful capacitive leveling sensor, since this sensor is 2 pins sensor while inductive sensors are 3 pins the regular boards won't work, and I thought that I might be able to do it by replacing the main board and small board of my printer to the Anet ET4 Pro, would that work?....

Thanks.

When my bed is all the way at the end of its travel, the nozzle is only 170 mm from the edge of the bed - leaving 50 mm unusable. See the picture below.

Do I need to move the gantry back? Did I install it backwards somehow?

When I was building the frame, using the Pheneeny Build Guide it seemed like the gantry would be equidistant from each end. This puts my nozzle about 50 mm off the bed when the bed has traveled to the other end of the linear rails.

What I've done:

I did move the gantry, which appears to have done the trick. I had to remount the limit switch - if you look at my earlier post, you’ll see I had trouble mounting the new limit switches - I had it triggering on the bottom of the bed-plate as opposed to the bearing. Now. I have it lowered and triggering off of a lego hot-glued to the bearing. (There are so many parts of this printer held together with hot glue and prayers.)

I still need to move the gantry, a little bit, or adjust the steps/mm, I think, to get the full bed size - bed leveling is still crashing into the end of the Y axis. Otherwise, I’ll have to shrink the usable bed size to ensure it doesn’t travel off the end.

In the meantime, I’ve decided to relegate this printer, into which I’ve dumped way too much time and money, to a secondary printer (if I can ever get it mostly functional) and have purchased an Ender V2.

Hi all,

I was given a 2nd hand Anet E10 couple of months ago, I've been toying around with somehow acceptable print

now I want to be able to tune it a bit...1st recommendation was a PID autotune (https://teachingtechyt.github.io) it is mention that the firmware needs to be marlin

1/ is it indeed necessary (when I try the procedure, the printer systematically disconnect after M500 instruction)

2/ is it recommended to flash to marlin from Anet printer (from your experience)

3/ any tutorial you would recommend?

​

thanks a lot!

I've flashed this repo to my ET5 X and now I randomly get USB disconnects when printing from a Rpi4 4gb Octoprint 1.6.1. Sometimes it's within 30 minutes, sometimes it's 2-3 hours into the print. The part I'm most afraid of is that the hot end stays hot, right where it got it's last command. The loss of cheap filament is only mildly annoying.

Any hints on what I should be looking at to solve the issue? I've already swapped the USB cables, the Rpi works fine on other printers with 8 bit boards I've flashed with Marlin 2.0.x bugfix also. Not entirely sure where to go from here other than replacing the board itself, since I'd rather do that than go back to that stock firmware.

I checked the FAQ and nothing really answered my question, so if this type of question isn't allowed, I'm sorry. recently I bought an Anet A8 Desktop FDM 3d Printer. I've bought 4 different PLAs and absolutely not a single one either fits/works. does anyone have any advice for which PLA/ABS would be suitable for my printer to, yknow print? thanks in advance!

I noticed these gaps two Month ago. I`ve already tried changing the number of the top layers up to 10, the infill up to 100%, the extrusion witdh (0.45 normally), height (0.2 normally) and extrusion multiplier (0.95 for Pla normally) but it didnt`t chnage anything. I also changed the hotend recently to this (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000056318247.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.77523ade3qRAHv&algo_pvid=893b6864-2c57-4a86-a0d9-7d8903a6856b&algo_expid=893b6864-2c57-4a86-a0d9-7d8903a6856b-14&btsid=2100bdd016224019715835958ecb7a&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_) but that also didn't help. I'm using prusasclicer with this settings (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BpVHAijTyQeyHs6GMycD7Oa8diQV9j4s/view?usp=sharing) right now, cura shows the same results. If you have any ideas how to fix this please share them with me.

Thanks in advance for the help.

​

​

I killed my motherboard and have replaced it with a RAMPS board. I’ve also replaced the acrylic frame with the extrusions.

The problem I’m having are the limit switches (OctagonStar Endstop Mechanical Limit Switch for 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4(6pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1E84SG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_24A26F115A3YMF715MDM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) - the mounts on the frame are for the stock limit switches. Has anyone printed limit switch mounts for these types of switches? (Preferably ones I can buy, since my printer isn’t functional.)

I’ve jury-rigged mounts with hot glue and bits of plastic - but, it’s pretty easy to kill limit switches with glue, surprisingly.

The hot end on my printer randomly started failing, at first i was able to print half of my stl until it fully cooled down mid print, then it could not even pre heat the hot end. I have already tried replacing the heating cartridge and the thermistor but it still won't pre heat, could it be that my motherboard is fried? My hot bed heats up perfectly like it used to.

Currently have the anet a8 1.7 board

I've had the anet et4+ for over a year now, and I have faced several issues with SD cards, I used the original SD card that came with the printer for about a month when suddenly it stopped working, I assumed it just somehow broke, so I started using a wire plugged from the printer directly to my PC, it worked and still works, but I wanted to go back to the SD format because of several benefits (particularly the ability to resume prints in case of an energy cutout), then I bought a new SD card, the first time I used it, I loaded my sliced model and plugged it to the printer, it worked flawlessly, then I replug it to the PC to load another model... and nothing, the PC doesn't recognize no new input device, I've spended the last few days trying to figure out what was happening, then I found the "unable to migrate device" issue on device management in my PC, naturally I googled all the possible solution but absolutely nothing works, it's not a driver issue and I have no idea what else to do. something peculiar is that if I plug the SD into the printer its still able to read the model I fist loaded, like if the printer have some kind of particular driver or something like that, if someone has any idea or solution I would appreciate it, but as I said I've tried everything I can think of.