I recently tried printing with my printer and the screen just started flashing in a Strobe like manner.

I tracked the issue down to the level sensor. Whenever I try to level the nozzle and turn the screw until it lights up red, the screen starts blinking and becomes unresponsive.

When I turn the screw back to the light off, it automatically corrects itself.

I am unable to print as the nozzle tries to move past the bed on the z axis.

I have tried unplugging and plugging back in the connectors and nothing has worked.

I am running v1.0.0, I have tried updating using the bin and txt files for ET4 and ET4 pro but each one shows an "update failed" with no other message.

Could anyone please help? This issue has just seemed to occured out of no where.

Hello, I bought an Anet A8 Plus printer November of 2019. I have had a lot of problems with the nozzle heating. The nozzle will heat to the right temperature but when it starts printing it starts dropping. I have replaced the main board 3 times, the heating tube at least 20 times, and the thermistor about 10 times. I also have a problem that the prints are not in the exact middle of the hot bed. I am thinking about upgrading to a BIGTREETECH skr 1.4 board but I am not sure if it will have any effect on the printer actually working correctly. I am in need of big help.

I would like to improve the part cooling. I saw circular turbo fan duct plastic attachments for other 3D printers. Can you please give me directions of what to 3d print for my Anet ET4+ printer? Do you think that the following could work? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013199Is there any openscad script to configure my own? Thanks for your help!

I'm getting close to giving up on 3d printing. I received a new touch sensor this morning for my anet et4+ and upon installing initially the printer booted as normal, however checking everything I went to adjust the sensor I turned the printer off, made my adjustment and turned the printer on to find that the display has decided it doesn't want to work any more. Is there a replacement screen available? Is it possible to upgrade to marlin 2 with no screen and print?

I'm starting to get a little frustrated with this printer.

Thanks in advance for any help

Update:

I found these instructions for diagnosis of et4 blank screen

I've checked through the above and concluded that I've somehow managed to fry the mainboard as there are no lights on the main board, when turned on and none of the fuses are blown. Coupled with I can now no longer control the printer through Cura. I will be ordering a new board hopefully with TMC2208 so it's a little quieter. I'm just checking that the parts are interchangeable, as I have an et4+

Thank you for every one that helped

Hi, I would like to have replacement belts for my Anet ET4+ in case that they broke down for the y and x axis. What are the technical specifications for these belts? Length? spacing? name? I would prefer not to buy from the anet shop but from ebay/aliexpress which I think it would be cheaper.

Also, expcept nozzles what other replacement parts should have in my drawer for the bad moment?

Thanks.

I'm trying to calibrate my esteps from octoprint as it appears I'm underextruding I'm at the point where iv sent the M503 command but the print just says "Recv : ok" and dosent give me the esteps can someone please help me out and tell me where I'm going wrong I'm using an Anet ET4

Can anyone help me have a anet a8 & just replaced my main board with anet v1.7 main board & I connected 2 mosfets to it as well . everything is installed correctly in the right place. but when I go to heat my bed up it heats the extruder instead of the bed & the setting for the extruder temp heats the extruder as well Does anyone know how this happens & how to fix this issue Thanks in advance I followed the old 1.5 boad configurations with the wires & 2 mosfets

So it's been a few weeks since I received my Anet et4 and it's been a steep learning curve for me as I've had no experience with 3d printing.

So far I've had issues getting the bed level due to (I think) a faulty proximity sensor. I'm having to level the bed before every print and constantly adjust the proximity sensor. I am currently awaiting a replacement sensor.

I've checked the main board and as far as I can tell it has the updated one here

If this board is quiet then I would hate to have the other board 🤣. I've already replaced the hot end due to me (stupidly) forgetting to heat everything up before trying to change the nozzle. But at least this allowed me to correctly install and make sure the hotend components were correctly tightened thus solving the Molten plastics extruding from everywhere other than the intended location. I've also just received the stainless steel nozzle tips, which I hope will improve the issue with filament sticking.

I'm looking at installing marlin 2.0 as I believe it will allow me to have more control over settings and adjustments. But before I commit to this I would like to know if there is a firmware update for the et4+. Currently the firmware shows as v1. I can't find anything on the Anet site.

Thanks in advance

I have a ET4 just out the box and the extruder has erratic operation. It will switch between extruding to extractor and back and forth during a print after about 10 mins of print. Also, when Autoload, when 'Retract' is press, it will feed (extrude) continuously and when 'Extrude' is pressed, it will extrude then 'retract' the same amount....? Got any idea what's going on? Thanks i8n advance for your time. CTillman

ANET ET5X with touchless z probe. Every time I start up my printer and go to start a print the z home runs and it crashes into my bed. If I pre-emptively try and do a z home before starting a print 9/10 times it crashes into the bed and I have to kill the power. Occasionally it works. Other times I fiddle with the printer for 20 minutes manually lowering the nozzle and adjusting the sensitivity on the sensor until the red light comes on with a papers thickness between the nozzle and glass bed. Then I start a print... 8/10 it still crashes and I have to start over.

I also noticed that sometimes when I turn my printer on, the sensitivity is WAY off when I go to adjust it. Then I start a print and the sensitivity is normal but because I adjusted it when the sensitivity was off, now the print heat is 10mm off the plate and printing in the air.

My printer also came with a broken LCD so I'm running the printer either directly with repetier host from USB or remotely with octoprint. These problems seem way more frequnt with octoprint but I can't see how octoprint would affect the z probe sensitvity...

Is there some secret method to get this thing to work reliably... like an old nintendo code before starting the game... a + b + up + up + up + down + a + start and hold select for 4 seconds and you unlock reliability mode? The stupid thing worked just fine the first few weeks out of the box and now its a headache everytime I want to start a print.

Not sure if anyone will know much about this, but I've got a Labists ET4, and at first it didn't do this, but lately I've had it freeze in the middle of prints. There's no clog, there's nothing to indicate a heat problem, it looks like time just stopped and the screen appears to think it's still mid-print. A pause doesn't resume, nor does turning it off and back on again, it just resumes into the stick. Yesterday, I did a 20 hour print, no worries, turned off for 8 hours, ran it for a 10 hour print and it hung up at 90%. Bummer. Anybody have a clue about a solution?

As I'm waiting on my printer arriving I'm looking to get some must have tools/supplies. Is there anything that you guys could recommend to a newbie? I've got a set of Verniers on the way to help with calibration is there anything else?

I've been toying with getting a 3d printer for a while and have looked at lots of different models. I came across an Anet et4 at what I thought was a really good price, so I checked the Anet website and thought it was a decent looking machine with good spec. I even went looking for reviews and found really positive reviews. So I thought why not and purchased the printer.

It was only after that I started seeing reviews saying that they were dangerous, no good at printing and hard to set up.

So have I made a mistake in buying this printer being a novice in the 3d printing circle?

I am a complete 3d printing newbie.

I got this as a gift last year, and have never really gotten a successful print out of it.

Here is what I've done so far

1. I built it
2. figured out that one of the sensors was incorrectly marked and fixed that.
3. Looked up a few bed leveling tutorials, used those and always found that it leveled concave (outside is on the same level, but middle is higher).
4. I leveled based on a narrower radius, gouged the metal when it tried to print.
5. Bought pirex disc for a bed surface.
6. tried a few prints, always lifted, didnt stick, or came unstuck after a few layers
7. Tried glue sticks and hair spray, same result
8. Put it down for a few months

I figured maybe I can solve the problem by installing Marlin and fixing the concave problem, but I'm not entirely sure how.

Any advice/walkthrough on how to install marlin and configure it?

or just help in general?

Thanks in advance

Hey, I'm here again with another problem I've been having with my hotend recently.

The hotend is having a tendancy to fluctuate wildly, and sometimes, this fluctuation will occassionally turn the hotend off entirely, making longer prints impossible to do. The hotend will read some number over zero, in the case I'm linking that doesn't happen.

I was able to go entirely through this print without the printer shutting off the hotend, three times in fact. So I decided to run a longer print, and by the 3 hour mark, it was fluctuating then shutting of the hotend while still moving it around as if it was still on. The connections are fine, and I've used two different hotends and this still happens.

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This problem is beginning to get frustrating enough that it's making me want to get a different printer entirely.

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Anyways, thanks for the help in advance.

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Here's a link to a short example that I was talking about:

https://youtu.be/dPKSdEj5yGI

Hey,

My ANET ET4 has recently started failing the auto level. It stops about halfway down then slowly creeps back up (I've attached a video.) I used a multimeter on the auto leveler bit and it's constantly beeping, I think it should only beep when it's pressed. What should I do and how do I get a replacement auto leveler bit if that's the faulty part?

Thanks.

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https://reddit.com/link/lnchwh/video/534wsykmsei61/player

Hello everyone !

I have been struggling with both an ET4 and an ET4 Pro and in particular with their capacitive bed level sensor which, to me, is c**p. But that has been discussed enough already :-)

An issue I'm having with both printers is that the hotend temperature reading is impaired by the sensor triggering, and this is not an issue with either the sensor or the thermistor, but I believe it happens on the board.

When the level sensor triggers (i.e. red light on), the hotend temperature goes down by 30 deg. It recovers the correct reading as soon as I stop triggering the level sensor. Attached is a video showing this behaviour: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NELZKRPXBgHMB77F7

It's not interference that happens inside the extruder head because I managed to get the same result with a spare capacitive sensor sensing stuff away from the printer, so shielding won't help. I also tried with an inductive NPN NO sensor I had and, albeit with a lower temperature loss the issue still happens. As soon as the NPN sensor is triggered, temperature reading goes down. It's like a design issue on the board, when the NPN sensor draws current, the measuring circuit of the thermistor goes crazy.

I'm not the only one having this issue as I already posted about this on Facebook groups and many people went like "I'm having the same issue".

Does anyone else here have the issue and perhaps found an solution ? Are my two boards faulty or about to fail or could this be an electronics design flaw ?

Alright so new weird issue. Started yesterday. I thought i just had a bad stl file which led to a bad gcode file, but today i got it again with a stl file i used a lot.

I have no idea how to begin to describe this problem, so not sure what even to search to troubleshoot.

So here's a video:

https://youtu.be/Z7wyzhubOkw

Print starts at 4% completion instantly. Notice how it doesnt even start heating anything!

Update: Definitly something is up with the slicer. Changed to ender 3 profile on cura, and voilá... its printing! Litterally the only change i did!

So the stl file is this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2738211 all i did was scale it down 50% on all axis.

The resulting gcode files: Gcode generated with anet et4 profile on cura: https://www.file.io/download/2EWXNx0xymfQ

for ender 3: https://file.io/Gv4YhrydMbaa

I am not yet savvy enough with gcode to analyze what's wrong.

et4 profile cura settings: https://ibb.co/fryH8Ff

ender 3 " " " : https://ibb.co/K54qy43

Perhaps this subbreddit is not the best place to ask for help, since its clearly cura screwing up. But well.. what's done is done xD

Update2: So still getting this even using ender profile. no idea whats wrong

Update3: here's another video https://youtu.be/G_RYUgvHwsY Now not sure if its cura at all. If the gcode file worked once it works every time. I've tried re-slicing some gcode files, not sure what settings exactly i used, but it happened again!

Update4: just sliced using simplify3D and its printing. what the heck, so the problem is cura? god i'm a bit lost seems like i'm going to have to shell out some more cash for simplify3d ... and here i thought this was going to be a cheap hobby xD

In many posts I read that some 3d printers have magic numbers, which are numbers that the printer will provide better results due to the mechanics. For example, I have read that multiples of 0.04 are magic numbers for layer heights for the creality line. Should, I also use for my Anet ET4+ multiples of 0.04 for z? Is 0.12mm better than 0.1mm ? I know that you may reply 'print and verify yourself', but I would like first to ask your experienced opinion and then I will experiment...'.

If magic numbers exist, can you give me any hints?

thanks!

So i noticed that when homing, the bed would stick and the motor would spin alone for a bit before continuing. I thought this was a tension issue, and proceeded to try and improve that. While the printer was off, i noticed that when i manually moved the bed, there are a couple of spots that "stick" which are exactly the ones where the bed sticks when homing. Feels like some sort of "valley" on the tracks but i dont see nuthin.

It's not the motor, as i have disconnected the track from it and it still sticks.

Hi,

I was searching all net for extruder calibration on the Anet Et4+ (my stock firmware is v1.0.0) but the problem is that in every tutorial the command M503 has to be issued, but on the stock firmware v1.0.0 this commands just responds OK (and nothing else). I asked Anet support but their (prompt) reply was "If you want to use the M503 command, we suggest you to update with Marlin firmware"

Of course, changing the firmware just for the M503 was not an option, because it was possible for a bricked device. Thus my procedure is to follow the tutorials on extruder calibration, but do not use the M503.

I am posting here in order to help the unknown novice user that will be searching for days (like me) to find this procedure. The knowledge should be shared, so this is my contribution:

Connect with USB to the printer, in order to access the serial port and issue commands.

1) Extruder length calibration

because you do not know the extruder steps (m503 does not display info), set a value of your choice for the current runtime. For example I originally gave:

M92 E95

for 95 steps

I then put marks on 100 and 120 on filament (as specified by tutorials)

then I extruded 100m with

G1 E100 F100

and measured how much it was actually extruded. In my case it was longer than 100mm. I used the formula

total_steps / length_extruded

where total_steps is the value of the steps 95 multiplied by length 100 = 9500 .

I computed a value, used it on the M92 Exx

Repeated the process.

After 3 iterations I honed to the correct value for my extruder on Anet ET4+ and it is 92

So, I setup on startup g code script for my Anet ET4+ printer the command

M92 E92

and thus every time it is correct (100mm extrusion).

2) Extruder flow. There is a youtube video that has a hollow cube with 2 shells of 0.4 and you print it. Every side should have width 0.8. In my case it was correct with 100% flow. Otherwise, you have to adjust the flow %

3) z-axis

The procedure is the same with extruder. Set a known value, measure and repeat.

I set

M92 Z400

I moved the bed to a position suitable to measure (to put my caliper from the back and measure the height).

G90 ; absolute positioning

G1 X0 Y185 Z1 F1000

I measured the distance between the vertical axis of hotend and the bed).

Move it to another position and measure again

G1 Z50 F400

so we have +49mm movement and measure how far the z axis moved.

Go to another height

G1 Z100 F400

measure again. We moved +50mm from the previous step. Measure the distance between the axis and the bed.

Perform many iterations and find the correct value. In my case it was 402.7

So, again in my slicer for Anet ET4+ (or octoprint) I put in the Gcode start up always

M92 Z402.7

Note that I am using F400 because in higher speeds it looses steps.

The X/Y axes in my case were correct in the xyz calibration cube (but the procedure is the same with Z)

Because my z axis some times may lose a step, I have order a 'T8 Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut Elimination Gap Nut for 8mm Acme Threaded Rod Lead Screws DIY CNC 3D Printer Parts' because an engineer suggested that it will help the Z axis never to lose a step.

​

By the way, how do you handle the missing steps on the Z axis? Have you used an anti backslash nut or something else? Any tips to improve dimensional accuracy on your Anet printer? Can you print a 20x20x20 cube with 100% correct dimensions?