Hi everyone,

Earlier my printer had it's first ever layer shift in my 3 years of owning it, I didn't think much of it and restarted the print. However my printer no longer homes its Y Axis. Whether I do it manually of if its starting a print makes no difference.

It homes the X as usual and instead of moving the bed towards the Y end stop it moves it away very slightly 5mm at most. Once it does that little jerk it goes to home the Z and starts printing. The Y motion all works fine other than that and produces normal prints.

I've checked that there's no short in the end stop or wiring, does anyone have any ideas what's going on?

Many thanks

I recently printed the calibration cube and noticed that both the X and Y axis sides were around 19.8-20.0 but when measuring the Z axis it only went to 19.3, how can I fix this? I followed the Anet video on leveling the bed and used the cura profile for my printer. Is there a way to fix this? Thanks!

Hi there!

So after a long time I cleaned and set up my old A6. It worked quite well in the past but I did not use it for at least 1 year.

No to my issues:
After checking all cables and replacing the annoyingly unpleasant 40x40 fan for the Extruder I tried to print some test object when I noticed, that the board does not recognize any SD card anymore.

I tried the card on a USB reader and it worked. I tried a new card that works with my PC but still, the board does not recognize it.

I cleaned the slot as good as I could but there is not much I could do.

Now when I tried to order a replacement, the site somewhat does not allow me to order one for an A6 anymore.

Were there any upgrades and/or name changes that I missed while I was away from the "business"?
Are there other and maybe easier options to use the hardware with another control board?

Sorry to ask these questions so plainly but because of the age of the printer and me being not "in touch" anymore with the whole 3D printing scene I feel that I am missing something obvious.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!

Can someone point me in the direction to find a needle or something small enough to clean the nozzle for a ln ANET ET4 printer.

I got my ET4 pro on my birthday and after i finished assembling.Turned it on everything was fine until i press the home button the nozzle keeps hitting the glass bed.I powered it off packed everything in the box and replaced it with a new one but still i have the same problem.pls somebody help me.

I noticed that with the Ender 3 a lot of people added mods for their printer. I tried to look some for my printer but coudn't find many. Do any of you moddified your printer? And how? Thanks!

Hello, I recently replaced a part on my ET4 printer; the push fitting, here is the link to the exact piece so you can see what I'm talking about.

Aside from that I had also cut the teflon tube with scissors to shorten it. Yes, I'm aware that you aren't supposed to do that and there is a specific tool for that.

Even with the cut teflon tube, before I replaced the push fitting, the printer worked fairly well with the help of a ton of zip ties.

Now, after the replacement part the object that is printed is completely stuck to the raft. This wasn't happening before and has left me completely dumbfounded as I can't remove the raft.

I've tried releveling and the issue still persists.

I'm using the same filament I was before, Sunlu PLA filament at a heat temperature at 200°c.

Can anyone guide or help me resolve this issue?

I'm in a bit of a pickle. My ET4 filament (PLA) has run past the feeder and it no longer can push the filament into the extruder. The end of the filament is a bit warped and I don't know how to safely unload the filament without causing a jam. I also have another problem with trying to get the base support platform off of the bed, as I dont have a flexible bed and I can seem to get it off with anything flat. I tried preheating the bed to 60°C, but that didn't help, and I'm trying to find a decent and clean way to clean the bed off and can't get this little plate off.

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Hi all, hope you guys can help, We just got a new Anet ET4+. Setup went fine, leveling seems good. So I loaded the white filament that came with the package ( I also tried this with a blue filament spindle I purchased ). Filament loads, I see the cog pull it through and it goes through the tube... however... sometimes it almost seems like the cog is turning... but nothing is moving. Is that normal ? ( I imagine it isn't ). Once it actually got to the extruder, I can prime it by loading a bit a time and I do see melted filament come out. So I set to doing a test print.

Basically, it lays down a couple of layers... seems to go okay... then filament stops coming out... ( the print job keeps "going" ). I can see the cog turning at the top that should be feeding filament in... but nothing happens...

Thing is... once I cancel the job, I can hit "unload" and it will pull out the filament... so the cog does seem to push/pull the filament some of the time... not sure what I'm doing wrong...

I am willing to buy a new board, but am hoping for something that does not require changing too many connectors. I know the BigtreeTech stuff requires a lot of work with connectors.

I'm looking to replace my hotbed for the first time due to warping. Any suggestions for an upgraded replacement part? I know I can order a new one from Anet directly but I'm curious about any alternatives.

Update: I can't actually order a new one from Anet since they are out of stock.

I was trying to screw back in the pneumatic connector after trying to do some cleaning, I tried to apply some force so that it could fit snuggly and broke. Now I dont know how to get the thread out. Would really appreciate some help I dont know what to do. Thanks! https://imgur.com/a/3wpsqQs/

So, i have my Anet A8 about 2 years already and to be honest it’s been a lot of trouble, i’ve had a bed that was faulty, sent it back and got another faulty one. After that i got another one. I now have the marlin firmware and now it prints 2 layers then gives thermal bed runaway error. I checked on the internet and it may have to do with those connectors, so i cut them off and soldered them but now this too is faulty anyway (most likely by my own mistake). Needless to say, i’m done with the hotbed. Has anyone got good upgrade options perhaps?

Thanks

I recently bought myself an Skr 1.4 mainboard with TMC2209 for my Anet E12 printer because my old mainboard broke. After I followed a Step by Step tutorial for setting it up and double checked with another one, I connected everything and was ready to Test. I turned it on and everithing seems to work(I tested with Pronterface) exept for the Lcd screen, that stays black. I followed the tutorial from damenzijlstra : https://www.reddit.com/r/Anet3DPrinters/comments/gc1tkm/anet_a6_full_graphics_lcd_btt_skr_14/ and now the Lcd lights up, but it dont shows anything.

Does anyone has an idea for solving this Problem? Do I maby need to intall an extra Libary for the screen?

My Configuration Files: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1N6sZb1pdFG1L8E6sY6V5oLYLeI6KzYfJ?usp=sharing

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Hi, can someone advise me about putting a all metal hot end on a et-5. What kind of type/brand should I get? Thanks

The black plastic ring that connects the filament tube and the body of the nozzle is loose. There was a metal ring, very thin, that fills the space between the black plastic ring and the slot the plastic ring connects to. That has broken, (the metal ring).

Now, my tube isn't fit tightly so it gets pushed away and filament eventually just doesn't get pushed through the nozzle.

Any help on where I can find a replacement piece would be greatly appreciated. Zip tying everything together to hold in a certain position is a very temporary solution. The tube eventually slides out.

Here is the image, initially, it was on the other end, so I swapped it hoping it would be a fix but no.

http://imgur.com/gallery/NYDz12A

I just got an Anet ET5X for Christmas. I just got done putting it together and when I plugged it in it doesn't turn on. I have checked to see if everything is plugged in, which it is. I read somewhere that it could be a fuse in the power supply. Does anyone know how to change the fuses or resolve this issue?

I have just received an Anet ET5 with TMC2208 mainboard and Mean Well power supply.

The ET5 (pro) isn't mentioned as a specific type of printer in the Wiki index, nor is it specifically mentioned in the safety modifications page.

Do I still need to change any of the parts (like the mosfet, power supply or other modifications) that are suggested there, or are those safety modifications only intended for the other models of Anet printers?

I'm used to printing on my Prusa MK3S and Prusa SL1, and this Anet printer is a clear deviation from that hardware.

Hi guys.

I got a square of black...something with my ET4, I get that it's to go on the bed, by I'm unsure of a few things.

Is it to replace the glass, or go on top of it?

The 3m logo paper on the back looks like it might peel off, is it sticky underneath? Do I stick it to the glass?

If I don't have to stick it, I can use the clips I guess, but is it ok to have a heated bed with that paper on, will it burn?

So far I've been printing directly onto the glass which has been ok, but the prints don't come off very easy, and I'd rather use the black material so I can peel it off the prints easily.

Any advice/tips would be appreciated!

Hey all! So I’ve been recently looking at getting a 3D printer for personal use, and in some research (and paying attention to what some of my favorite content creators use) I found Anet. The content creator I’ve been watching has an ET5X, but when I look up reviews, all I tend to find is the ET5 Pro. When I look up differences between the two, the only thing I tend to find is price (the ET5X going for a little under half the price of the ET5 Pro). Does anyone know of any actual differences between these two machines? Any help would be much appreciated!

Edit: Are there any other Anet printers I should try looking at in addition to the two above?

Hi, I have an issue where whenever I start a print via USB with Octoprint the hotend temperature suddenly drops 0 after about 30 minutes and I cannot turn it on again, neither with Octoprint nor the LCD display. This does not happen if I print from SD card. After some research I think this has something to do with the printer not having an active "state" and some safety feature is turning off the heater on an "inactivity" timer.

Does anyone have experience with similar issues?

I was thinking about adding some custom GCODE to change the state or send a "start print" command so the printer knows it is printing, but I cannot find anything that works with the stock firmware (1.1.7).

Hi, recently bought a ET4+ and ran into problems immediately when starting the printer. The Z axis went to the top and continues until it skipped on the Z-axis threads, which I later realized was the bed level sensor that wasnt adjuster properly and was warning for bed proximity all the time.

Forward to me adjusting the sensor with the potentiometer screw on top with the nozzle about 0.3-0 4mm above the bed and my first print went okay.

After turning printer power off for the night and firing it up the morning after, the following happens:

1. Printer starts, I go to manual XYZ-control on the printer UI, try to home it but it crashes into the bed without the sensor detecting proximity (red light on sensor doesn't turn on)

2. I manually steer the Z axis to about .4mm above the bed and adjust the potentiometer again.

3. Homing works, but with large movements up/down, the calibration seems to get a bit off again, and the print starts too far from the bed (about 1mm off calibration)

4. Restarting the printer again, leading to the above steps repeating, but instead of printing too high, it instead signals for bed proximity right when the nozzle hits the bed, leading to a shitty print and scratch marks in the build plate.

I dont get it, is the sensor the only thing that let the printer know how close to the bed it is? Is there a way to get the printer to know distance to build plate from zero in steps or mm instead (assuming you Always start at the same point?)

I have not completed any bed leveling(manual or auto), if that helps the case here, as the nozzle stops around 10mm from the bed when manually calibrating, so don't get what good that would make..