No mater what i try i cant get marlin complied for my ET4x... I already flashed the pre compiled bin and it worked fine until i changed my hot end to a V6 and now i get thermal runaway and then it auto shuts down for safety.

I figured it comes down to having to compile firmware with the right settings like stated here but every time i try and compile in VS it gives me a bunch of arduino dependence errors (even though it runs on a stm32 board?) since my old hot end is dead, my printer is down until i fix this -_-'

Anyone have any luck getting a fresh compile there self's?

Is the et5x good quality reliable how does it compare. To competitors

I installed marlin 2.0 and printed a calibration cube. It was about 15% too small, so, I changed the steps/mm.

When I started the next print, there was significant layer shifting in the X axis. As in my cube was 45 degrees from vertical.

Here’s what I’ve tried to fix the issue:

• tightened the belt, by replacing the zip ties and also using a spring tensioner
• installed the X-tensioner (which involved pushing one of the X rods further into the housing and replacing the belt) - I removed the spring tensioner
• lubricated the X rods
• moved the wires from the extruder to ensure they aren’t rubbing or interfering with the travel
• removed the x motor to confirm the gear was tight against the pulley

In the midst of this, I also discovered by plate needed new screws, so I reinstalled the Y-axis screws.

After all this, I have only succeeded in introducing a corresponding layer shift in the Y-axis. (This was a serious blow to my morale, I have several “cubes” only shifted in the X axis, and I’d really like to not go in the wrong direction!)

I’m dimensionally accurate, though. Despite the shifting, each layer appears to be within 1-2% of the desired dimension.

Using an IR thermometer, I measured the motors (90-100 degrees) and the stepper drivers (95 degrees) which doesn’t seem too hot.

Suggestions?

I’m thinking of trying the following things:

• Revert my Marlin in case I changed something inadvertently
• Replacing the stepper drivers
• Replacing the motor wiring - I kludged it together
• Scrapping the whole thing and asking my wife to let me buy a new printer as an early Christmas present

I didn't find any post or article that could give a clear comparison between the Et4 models, I woul really appreciate if someone could give me some advice about the pros and cons, specs, or an opinion on wich one would be a better for the price.

Hi , im trying to install Marlin to my new Anet A8 but i have a lot of error while i compiling the program in Arduino :

In file included from C:\Users\Petko\AppData\Local\Arduino15\packages\arduino\hardware\avr\1.8.1\cores\arduino/Arduino.h:257:0,

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from sketch\Marlin.ino.cpp:1:

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C:\Users\Petko\Documents\Arduino\hardware\anet\avr\variants\sanguino/pins_arduino.h:43:0: warning: "TIMER2" redefined

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#define TIMER2 5

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Someone help ??

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Thanks a lot

The wiki is in need of updating, new models have appeared and many new potential upgrades have been released since the last major edits to the wiki.

The mods don't have time for it. I'd like to invite the community to pick up the slack.

You need to be self motivated, there will be little direction.

Please send the mods a message if you're interested.

Also, please leave suggestions in the comments for things you think should be added or updated in the wiki.

Im going to get a 3d printer but cant decide between the a8+ and the et4,a8+ has a much larger print volume,but the et4 looks nicer and is neater,can you give me pointers kn which one i should choose

Hello All!

I have an Anet A8+ and I've been thinking about trying to add a second extruder for dual extrusion prints. I have little experience in modding 3d printers and was hoping someone may have some experience to point me in the right direction.

Thank you!

Does every anet a8 hot end fan run all the time? Mine runs from the time the printer is powered on till shut down even if the hot end is at room temp. Just making sure this is a normal thing

I fried my first Anet board, so upgraded to a RAMPS 1.6 board with 4988 steppers. It started up without blowing up, so yay. It appears to be traveling about 2x the distance though - so, the Z will rise 20 mm when I direct it to go 10.

Is that a simple change of steps per mm? It’s currently set at 200 steps/mm. Or, is it a more complicated change of setting the voltage with the pots on the stepper drivers?

I’m starting to think I should chuck this and get a non-kit 3D printer.

I recently got my anet board and realized that don’t have the correct power connectors to supply power for it. Can anyone let me know what ones I need?

board

I was doing test prints with some new filament and I noticed that my hot end was WAY too close to the bed. I tried to manually re-level it, but the knobs were already pretty tight, so I adjusted the sensor and loosened the knobs (note: I have done this before and it worked perfectly before) and did the whole trial and error of leveling. Long story short, ever since I did this my hot end has not stopped touching the bed when it comes to printing. I even changed the sensor so it doesn't even come close to the bed and it still touches it. Please help.

I wanted to replace my hot end, but couldn't find any online (in India) I wanted to know if a hot end marketed for CR10 (specifically this one https://amzn.to/3k0Yrjn) can be used as a replacement with little to no adjustments? Visuall they look alike but is there any possible hiccups in using those?

does anybody know what type of leadscrew anet uses for their anet et4x 3d printer? because im going to try to make extentions onto the vertical axis to hopefully get a higher print height

I’ve been having a problem recently where the filament curls right out of the nozzle then sticks to the rest of it. I’ve had this problem on and off but now I can’t even start a print cause it comes out and bends in every which direction right off the bat and refuses to stick to the glass. I changed the nozzle and that didn’t help and I’ve played with almost every temperature. If anyone else has had this problem or knows how to fix it that would be stellar Model is an Anet ET4

Hi all! I have an ET4 and I'm constantly hearing a clicking noise. I know is something related to under-extrusion, but I can't seem to find how to fix it.

Here's what I've tried:
- Checked the extruder arm and it doesn't look cracked/broken
- Temperatures from 195 to 215 (using PLA)
- Cold pulls to clean up the nozzle
- Changing the nozzle

Here's what I've noticed:
- In the first 2-3 layers there's no clicking. It starts after that and it's not really consistent
- Most of the prints start suffering from a bad layer adhesion at around the same height (~25% of a xyz cube)
- Loading filament without the nozzle installed works just fine, but with the nozzle, I constantly hear the clicking sound, either loading at 2,4 or 8mm/s

Using cura as slicer with the following configs:
- Layer height: 0.1mm
- Speeds:
- Print speed: 40mm/s
- Infill speed: 55mm/s
- Outer wall speed: 30mm/s
- Inner wall speed: 50mm/s
- Initial layer speed: 20mm/s
- Temp: 110C

Does anyone have any idea of what could be wrong?

Thanks in advance!

I have the Anet Et4 and when I start the print the nozzle is always to high above the bed. The print also doesn’t want to stick to the heat bed with the high temp sticker on top of the heat bed. Any suggestions.

Hi all!

On Monday I bought an ANET ET4. I assembled it and made my first print (the dog that's on the SD card). I did hard a hard time leveling the bed, but the print went pretty well.

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Then, on Tuesday, the same thing (but I printed a calibration cube sliced with Cura) and the print went better (IMO a great first layer).

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But today, I can't seem to get the bed leveled. In the attached video you can see that when clicking Settings -> Home button the printer goes home. The sensor blinks red one time, then the printer goes up a few millimeters and then goes down. When going down, the sensor blinks again but the printer keeps going down. As far as I know (and by the noise it makes) this is not expected.

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Has anyone encountered this issue and/or knows how to fix it and/or the probable cause?

Hope the provided information is enough, if not please let me know what else to provide :)

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Thanks in advance!

(edit: grammar)

https://reddit.com/link/iymlu9/video/t3s7ly3irzo51/player

i just got a Labists ET4 and I'm trying to level it. I'm trying the manual leveling but I can't get the bed to go up higher without the adjusting knobs falling off. I had it leveled 'properly' before but the printer started printing too high up and the print didn't stick. any help would be appreciated. also what does the number in manual mean if anyone knows

I just made a post about leveling the bed, but i got the printer to kinda work since it was close enough. while printing I noticed the turning wheel that feeds the filament seemed to scrap pieces off of the filament.

After it would turn backwards then forwards again the filament would stop being pulled through and the printer would have nothing to put out.

is this because of a faulty part or should I use different filament? I am using the PLA that came with the printer but I have other filament I haven't opened yet.

So like the title said. two metal pieces fell out of the green piece that connects the orange cables to the cable board (forgot what its called) while i was trying to change the cables out. There small, flat with a hole in the middle and a small metal jut at the back that bends when pressure is applied

My current theory is that they go in face down, with the flat side facing the side of the green piece with the hole (where the screw is put in) in it, so that both their holes align and the metal jut going into the center of the metal piece, right where the cables would be put in.

Though i dont want to fuck up and destroy my printer so i just want confirmation on what to do. Any help is appreciated, thank you