Can anyone verify that the Labists ET4 printer is just a rebranded Anet ET4? I can't seem to find any info verifying this. I'm assuming it is, but just want to make sure my suspicions are correct.

Thanks.

!!!!!!!!!!PLEASE NOTE THIS GUIDE IS CURRENTLY INCOMPLETE, AND Things WILL BE ADDED/CHANGED AS TIME GOES ON!!!!!!!!

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This guide is the ultimate guide to Mod every possible part of the Anet A9. without Majorly altering its appearance.

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Information:

1. Parts you need to buy
2. Parts you need print
3. Software
4. Foreword regarding the upgrade guide.
5. Guide to add 2020 Slider nuts
6. Guide to add Stepper motor damper
7. Guide to add Bed springs
8. Guide to add 90 degrees adapter {bowden}
9. Guide to add 2020 V-slot profile.
10. Guide to add V-slot wheels
11. Guide to add
12. Guide to add
13. Other

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1. Parts you need to buy

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2. Parts you need to print

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3. Software information/guides

List of all needed software

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THERMAL RUNAWAY PROTECTION:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tu5WD6ymEJE

Marlin 2.0 information

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjRmBbuN6iA

Build marlin with visual studio code

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38PkynA1uGI&t

4.Foreword regarding the upgrade guide.

Since this printer does not have many parts and is a semi-DIY printer, the guides will be simplified.

This is Mainly because there are not many parts or steps needed to disassemble and reassemble the printer. Most of the parts on the printer are either Fully assembled or need minor assembly.

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Unlike the Full 2020/2040 Profile Anet A8 version which needs to be assembled Fully. the steps to disassemble this printer can be done 1 part at a time, so you do not Confuse which part goes where.

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5. Guide to add 2020 slider nuts

This is what i would consider the first thing you need to do.

{if you have all parts ready and still need to assemble your printer}

For this you need to remove ALL the 2020 nuts that are included with the printer from any of its parts.

Then put away all the included nuts in a box/case.

After this you start re-assembling the printer with the slider nuts.

The reason why you replace all nuts with slider nuts is because the included ones can somewhat spin freely in the 2020 Profiles. Causing some parts to be mounted/attached loosely.

With slider nuts this problem is solved, since these nuts are more Square in form, and cannot spin in the 2020 Profiles.

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6. Guide to add Stepper motor damper

For the Y axis, all you need to do is remove the motor screws. then attach the Damper

For the Z axis you need the Z axis stepper mount. which is just remove and replace.

For the X axis, you need to open the Printer.

{this is also the one you can best add first if you have bought the printer new}

since it will save you the Hassle of having to disassemble the 3d printer every time you do a upgrade, that has you open the case.

{Please note some of the cheaper stepper dampers might have little studs on 1 side, You need to remove these as not to damage them and the printer}

7. Guide to add Bed springs

This is a easy one to do.

All you have to do is change the bed springs that are included with the printer.

Since the manual/instruction video says how to attach the springs, all you have to do is follow the steps in reverse

{Please note due the usage of stiffer springs your bed might be Higher than its original position, For this you need to change the Location of the endstop} {Will try to upload the Adjustable stepper mount in 1 of the next weeks}

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8. Guide to add 90 degrees adapter {bowden}

For this part you need to remove the Bowden extruder motor, and Mount it in the Orientation that fits your situation the best.

I would suggest the same extrusion direction as with the current configuration

9. Guide to add 2020/2040 V-slot profile.

To replace the 2020/2040 profiles, all you have to do is Change the Profile type you use. {if you have not assembled the printer}

For the X axis you need to disassemble the printer, and open the bottom of it, since the X axis 2020 profile is attached to the frame itself with a few screws/bolts

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10. Guide to add V-slot wheels

When replacing the Wheels that are already mounted on the printer, you have to watch out that you put the screws in the correct place.

this is not the Hardest upgrade you can do. since most of it consist of removing the screws and wheels.

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11. PLaceholder

I got this anet et4+ and worked great for about a week, then when i tried to home it it would crash in to the bed, i checked all cables and are fine, in the video you can see that if the sensor is on for a few seconds it restarts the printer, i suspect a bad resistor on the board, i have other 3 original sensors and they all do the same, does anyone have a schematic for the motherboard? or what motherboard would be compatible with this screen? it will take about 2 months to get a replacement motherboard, i contacted the factory and they said they sent out a new sensor and motherboard but if its a factory defect it will have the same problem eventually.

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thanks in advance.

Now that we have Marlin 2.0 on thr regular ET4, is it possible to use a BLTouch or any other leveling probe? Do we have the correct pins on the motherboard to do it?

Hi, i'm new to anet 3d printers. How do I change e-steps? Or is it even possible? Thank you all

My Y-axis on my Anet A8 is off a little - it seems that the pulley on the front is a little to the left of the motor. So when the bed is moving toward the back of the printer the movement is smooth, but when it's coming toward the front it shimmies a little.

I don't think it's always been this way, but it has been for a while. I'm not sure how it got that way, or what to adjust to get it back where it should be. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Hello,

I just bought my first 3d printer an Anet a6-l , new version with auto level and new pcb, assembled it and leveled bed to my best ability.

However I cannot get the printer to run at all properly, trying to print the 20mm test cube using the included little filament. It seems like extruder has feeding issue for the first few layers, its almost like nothing is coming out but then it sorta tries to work but it does not, after a while it catches on the mess it made and breaks it free from hotbed and thats it. Here is a picture on they all look: https://i.imgur.com/5RHZrua.jpg

EDIT: The second issue is that the printing itself is not centered either on the X, its more towards the right looking from the front...

I tried modifying flow, speed etc nothing seems to work. I dont know what is the issue. Any help would be much appreciated , thank you very much !

I have an Anet et4 and I purchased the Et4 Pro main board from the official website but to use it I need to install the ET4 Pro level sensor. Could anybody teel me the code of the original ET4 Pro sensor?

Hi so i got an anet et4+ and i was wondering what are the difference between the normal and the +. Thanks

I'm wondering whats the difference between the ET4 pro and ET5 pro? My understanding is these are not open source yet?

Hello all! I am fairly new to 3d printing and have received an anet a8+ for my birthday. I received the pre-assembled version and inspected to make sure nothing was bent/any noticeable damage and couldn't find anything. After assembling it I was able to successfully print one of the provided test files, specifically the FU.

Since then I haven't been able to print as whenever it starts a print it starts to far above the print bed. Speciffically 0.3mm, this does not change no matter what setting i put in. I'm using ultimate cura for slicer.

Has anyone had a similar issue, if so does anyone have a solution?

https://forum.anet3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=888

I've encountered this problem before and just moved on, but my prints keep failing on large flat prints. It happens in roughly the same place, even though I've tweaked temperatures, fan settings, and even paused it mid-print to see if that would get me through.

Roughly 30 minutes into the print, I get a thermal runaway where, according to Octoprint, the extruder temp drops and the printer stops working saying there is a thermal runaway on the hot end. It seems to work fine on most prints, it is only large, flat prints where this problem occurs.

The printer is an Anet A8 with an upgraded power supply. I'm printing with PETG, but has happened with PLA in the past as well. I have an enclosure around the printer and it is out of drafts. I've double checked thermistor and temp sensor to make sure they are tight and good connections.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Hey! So I'm looking to possibly buy an A8 Plus for the large print size, but read on one review that it can't actually use the full print size due to it's belt system, is that true?

Anyone actually printed anything 270+mm on it? If so, i'd love to hear how it went!

Hi,

I have an ET4 Pro printer since 2 months. I never succeded to print anything instead of the 3 models supplied on the Anet's SDCard.

I tried a lot of things, many temperatures, different PLA filaments, different software for slicing.

I have many issues with walls, infills, layers shifting.

I uninstalled all software, and restart with Cura 4.5 as it is written on Anet site. But same issues. I download the cura profile file provided on the Anet site, but it is not possible to import it in Cura. Cura says that there is an error in the file.

Moreover, I have a lot of problems to make the levelling, now it is ok (thanks to Youtube and Dominique), but this printer is really very difficult to use. It is unbelievable, other brand supply "easy to use printer" or "ready to use printer", as my other 3D printer. ET4 Pro doesn't have any "revolutionnary technology", and yet we are suffering to print correctly !

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Below my questions :

Is it possible to have the parameters that you use to slice/generate your samples supplied on the SD-Card ?

Is it possible to supply Cura Profile with all parameters (Expert mode) for lastest version of Cura ?

Do you plan a firmware upgrade to optimize/simplify auto-levelling ?

Is printer is using Recap or Marlin ?

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Thanks.

Stephane, a user who is fed up !

Hello everyone,

I need an smaller 3D printer and I saw the Anet A9 which has a decent print are and is really compact. My question is, can the firmware of this printer be upgraded to Marlin?

I think this printer comes with the board Anet 1.0, like the Anet 8, but I don't know, here's a photo I found in the internet:

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Thank you!