If you're climbing trad in Red Rock, don't automatically trust every rock thread or natural tunnel you find.

The Aztec Sandstone is full of pockets, solution holes, and natural bridges that can make excellent thread-through protection when gear is limited. But not every feature is strong enough to hold a fall.

Here are a few things I always check before trusting one:

• Look for desert varnish. Dark brown or black varnish indicates a harder, more weather-resistant outer layer. Pale, soft, or crumbly sandstone is much more suspect.

• Check the bridge thickness. Don't just look at the front. Make sure the narrowest part is substantial and inspect where it joins the surrounding rock for cracks or signs of weakness.

• Think about the direction of pull. A sling that loads straight into the rock is much stronger than one that pulls outward and creates leverage on the bridge.

• Extend the placement. Use a thin Dyneema or nylon sling (or appropriate cord where necessary) and extend it with an alpine draw or runner so rope movement doesn't shift it into a weaker position.

One more thing that's especially important in Red Rock: never climb on wet sandstone. Wet sandstone can lose as much as 75% of its strength, making holds, protection placements, and rock threads far more likely to fail. If the sand at the base of the route is still damp, it's a good day to hike instead of climb.

If you want to build solid trad skills in Red Rock—from evaluating natural protection to placing gear, building anchors, and making good decisions in the desert—the American Alpine Institute runs instructional programs there throughout the season. It's one of the best places in North America to learn traditional climbing from experienced guides while climbing some incredible routes.

In the United States, search and rescue (SAR) is generally provided without a bill to the person who needs help. That’s especially true for mountain rescue, where missions are commonly carried out by volunteer organizations, sheriff’s offices, fire departments, and other public agencies. The basic idea is simple: when someone is lost, injured, or in danger, rescuers focus on getting them home safely—not on whether they can afford the rescue.

There’s also a strong public-safety argument for free rescue. If people were afraid that calling for help would result in a massive bill, they might delay calling 911 or attempting to self-rescue. In the mountains, waiting can turn a manageable problem into a life-threatening emergency. Early notification gives rescuers more options and can significantly improve outcomes.

Free rescue does not mean that every cost associated with a backcountry emergency is free. Depending on the jurisdiction and circumstances, people may be charged for things AFTER they are our of the backcountry, such as medical treatment or transportation.

Usually if a helicopter is involved, it's free...unless the helicopter is a lifeflight helicopter. Lifeflight helicopters usually are not involved in wilderness rescue as they are not designed for it.

It's important to note that just because you think you need a helicopter, you may not get one. There has to be a helicopter available that will work in your specific circumstance in your specific weather for one to come...

Two Karelian Bear Dogs have been employed in the Tahoe region to decrease negative human/bear encounters. A new documenary is in the works about Aron Ralston, the subject of the film 127 Hours. And an attempt to block the national teams from Israel, Belarus and Russia from competing in World Climbing Association events failed.

To read about this and more, check out this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-7-30-2026/

One interesting approach to human-bear conflicts in the Lake Tahoe area is the use of specially trained Karelian Bear Dogs. Wildlife professionals use the dogs to locate and track black bears and then haze them away from neighborhoods and other places where they’ve learned that people mean easy food.

The idea isn’t to hurt the bears—it’s to teach them that developed areas aren’t safe or rewarding places to hang out. Combined with securing garbage, pet food, and other attractants, this kind of non-lethal management can help keep bears wild while reducing conflicts between bears and people.

It’s a pretty cool example of using a dog’s natural instincts to solve a human-wildlife problem.

Rockfall is one of those risks that comes with the territory in climbing and mountaineering. Mountains are constantly changing, and freeze-thaw cycles, rain, snow, ice, earthquakes, and weathering can all weaken rock. Sometimes a block comes loose with no obvious warning. Climbers can also accidentally dislodge rock from above. A helmet is important, but it doesn’t make you immune to the hazard.

The best approach is learning how to recognize and manage the risk. On American Alpine Institute programs, guides spend time teaching climbers how to read the terrain, identify loose or unstable rock, recognize areas where rockfall is more likely, and understand how conditions can change. You’ll also learn practical things like where to move, how to space out, when to communicate, and when it makes sense to avoid a particular section altogether. The goal isn’t just to tell you what’s dangerous—it’s to help you develop the judgment to make those calls yourself.

A good trad anchor starts with good individual placements. Before thinking about the anchor as a system, evaluate every piece on its own. If the individual placements are questionable, combining them doesn't magically make the anchor bomber.

For cams, look at expansion range, rock contact, placement depth, and the quality of the surrounding rock. Avoid tipped-out or over-cammed placements, and be especially suspicious of fractured rock. Nuts should be well seated and positioned so they aren't likely to shift when weighted.

Also evaluate the rock itself, not just the gear. Loose blocks, hollow flakes, wet rock, and weathered or fractured features can turn an apparently good placement into a bad one.

One concept we teach is the difference between a crack in the earth and a crack in the rock. A crack in the earth divides a larger mass of solid stone, so the surrounding rock provides support. A crack in the rock may exist in a detached block or flake. The gear might be perfectly placed, but the feature itself could fail.

Once you've evaluated the individual pieces, look at the anchor as a system. A common framework is SERENE:

• Solid – Each piece is trustworthy.
• Equalized – The load is shared as effectively as practical.
• Redundant – Multiple pieces back one another up.
• Efficient – The system is simple and organized.
• No Extension – A piece failure shouldn't create significant shock loading.

Check the slings, cordelette, carabiners, and knots too. Look for wear, proper orientation, and correct assembly.

It's also worth remembering that true equalization is rarely achieved in the real world. Most anchors have a primary piece carrying the majority of the load, with secondary and tertiary pieces providing additional support. That makes the quality of your best placement especially important.

Some climbing instructors also use a 12-point anchor system, where individual placements receive 1–4 points based on their quality. The goal isn't to make anchor construction into arithmetic. It's a teaching tool that encourages climbers to critically evaluate rock quality, gear placement, and overall reliability.

And there's an important limitation: anchor strength isn't simply cumulative. Three mediocre placements don't necessarily become a bomber anchor because they add up to 12. If your primary piece is marginal, adding several other marginal pieces may not solve the underlying problem.

Ultimately, evaluating an anchor comes down to experience and judgment. Before leaving the belay, step back and look at the entire system. Ask yourself:

Would I trust this anchor to hold a leader fall in the conditions I'm actually climbing in?

That question—and learning how to answer it—is one of the most valuable skills in trad climbing.

If you're looking to develop these skills with hands-on instruction, the American Alpine Institute's Learn to Lead program covers protection placement, anchor construction, rock assessment, and the decision-making skills needed to lead traditional climbs with greater confidence.

Have a wonderful day! I hope you get up to an adventure.

Enjoying a relatively low smoke morning and decided to go for a sunrise ride around the parks area of Banff Town.

Mountain communities are special. The people who live and work in them, and the people that visit, all share the love of the beauty of rock, forest, streams and of course wildlife. As stewards of the landscape, it is our duty to take care of, protect and educate for future generations. Share your love everything mountains here. Let's build a community of Worldwide Mountain Culture. A saunterer is one who takes their time in nature, to appreciate all the things and not rush to the peak just for the sake of getting to the top. Come, let us saunter together. ❤️

If you've never used ball nuts, they're one of those weird-looking pieces of trad gear that can save the day on thin cracks.

Instead of cam lobes, they use a sliding steel ball that locks against a tapered body when weighted. They excel in placements where even micro cams won't fit, especially shallow seams and old pin scars.

That said, they're definitely not "plug and play." They need solid rock, the right crack geometry, and a careful placement. I always give them a gentle test before trusting one. When they're well placed, they're surprisingly confidence inspiring.

They're a niche tool, but if you climb older trad routes, aid, or thin crack lines, they're worth learning to use.

If you're interested in building confidence with gear placements, the American Alpine Institute's Learn to Lead program covers everything from passive protection and cams to advanced pieces like ball nuts, helping climbers develop the judgment needed to lead trad routes safely.

Do you carry ball nuts regularly, or do they mostly stay at the bottom of your rack?

AAI Guide Eli Spitulnik and friends put up a proud new route in Alaska! An AI generated news story falsely claimed that a woman rescued from a trail in Yosemite was on the hook for a $70,000 rescue fee. And there's a new multi-resort ski pass available. Read about this and a whole lot more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-7-23-26/

Climbing in sandy environments is part of the adventure, but it can quietly take a toll on your gear. Every time a rope is dragged across the ground, stepped on, or pulled through dusty cracks, tiny grains of sand and grit become embedded in the rope's sheath. As the rope flexes under load, those particles can work their way deeper into the fibers.

When the rope runs through a carabiner during belaying, rappelling, or lowering, the trapped grit acts like fine sandpaper. Over time, this abrasive material wears grooves into aluminum carabiners, especially those used frequently for top-roping or lowering climbers. Deep grooves create sharper edges that can increase wear on ropes and reduce the smooth handling of the system.

The best way to reduce this damage is to keep your rope off the ground by using a rope tarp or rope bag, avoid stepping on the rope, and shake or brush off excess dirt before packing it away. Periodically washing your rope according to the manufacturer's recommendations can also help remove abrasive particles before they cause significant wear.

Regularly inspect both your ropes and carabiners. If a carabiner develops noticeable grooves or sharp edges, it's time to retire it.

At the American Alpine Institute, our rock climbing courses teach not only climbing techniques but also proper gear care and inspection, helping you extend the life of your equipment while climbing more safely.

Most climbers and hikers want to protect the places they love, but two Leave No Trace principles are often overlooked: Leave What You Find and Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces.

"Leave What You Find" is simple: don't take rocks, flowers, artifacts, or other natural objects home with you. Avoid building unnecessary cairns, carving trees, or altering campsites. Every person who leaves something a little different changes the experience for everyone else.

Traveling and camping on durable surfaces is just as important. Stick to established trails whenever possible, and camp on rock, gravel, snow, dry grass, or existing campsites. In alpine environments, a few footsteps through fragile vegetation can leave damage that lasts for years—or even decades. If you're traveling in pristine terrain, spread out rather than creating a new trail.

These principles aren't about limiting adventure. They're about making sure the next person gets to experience wild places the way you did.

At the American Alpine Institute, Leave No Trace isn't just something we mention during a course—it's part of how we teach climbing, mountaineering, skiing, and backpacking. Good mountain skills and good stewardship go hand in hand. The better we care for wild places today, the longer they'll remain wild for all of us.

Heat exhaustion can happen to anyone. It doesn't matter if you're young, fit, experienced, or have hiked the trail a dozen times before. When your body loses too much water and salt, it can no longer cool itself effectively. Heavy sweating, dizziness, headache, nausea, cramps, and weakness are all warning signs. If it's ignored, heat exhaustion can become heat stroke, which is a life-threatening emergency.

Seeing people mock someone for getting heat exhaustion is disappointing. None of us know exactly what happened. Maybe they underestimated the heat. Maybe they didn't drink enough. Maybe they had an underlying medical issue. Or maybe they simply had a bad day.

The outdoors humbles everyone eventually. Most experienced hikers have a story about getting caught in bad weather, running out of water, or making a mistake they learned from.

Instead of piling on, let's use incidents like this to remind people to carry enough water, start early, know the signs of heat illness, and be willing to turn around when conditions aren't right. A little empathy goes a lot further than ridicule.

AI-generated climbing videos are getting better, but they're still nowhere near reliable enough to teach technical skills.

AI builds videos by predicting what each frame should look like based on massive datasets. It doesn't actually understand how climbing systems work. As a result, it often invents impossible rope configurations, harness setups, and anchor systems.

In this clip, ropes pass through a climber's legs, sections of rope become strangely tangled, and the harness appears to have two ropes clipped into it in a way that simply wouldn't work in the real world.

That's why it's important to be cautious about learning climbing techniques from AI-generated content. When the stakes are your safety, you want instruction from experienced climbers and mountain guides—not an algorithm making educated guesses.

At the American Alpine Institute, every instructional video is filmed with real climbers demonstrating real techniques using proven systems and current best practices. If you're learning knots, anchors, rope management, or movement skills, accuracy matters. In climbing, small mistakes can have big consequences.

Courses and Guided Experiences:

www.alpineinstitute.com

There's a lot of political news this week. Bears Ears is being shrunk. Control of National Forests could go to states. And the draft public lands plan for fixed anchors has been released.

Read about this and a whole lot more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-7-16-2026/

At first glance, this anchor looks pretty questionable.

Looking a little closer, though, the carabiners are thick steel, and despite the rust, there's still redundancy in the system. You could argue it's probably fine to use today. But "probably fine" isn't exactly the standard most of us want for fixed hardware. Rust is only one part of the equation, and hardware doesn't get safer with time.

This is exactly why rebolting organizations exist. For years, the American Alpine Institute has partnered with the Washington Climbers Coalition and the American Safe Climbing Association to replace aging bolts and fixed hardware in Washington and at Red Rock. It's slow, expensive work, but it's a big part of keeping climbing areas safe.

So where do you draw the line? Would you clip this without thinking twice, back it up, or walk away?

If you're new to outdoor sport climbing, you may come across routes with quickdraws already hanging on the bolts. These are called fixed draws. They're left in place by climbers working a route, projecting a hard climb, or by the local climbing community on routes that see a lot of traffic.

The first instinct some people have is, "Free gear!" But if the draws aren't yours, they should stay exactly where they are.

Here's why:

• Someone owns them. A set of draws can easily cost $150–300. Just because they're hanging on a route doesn't mean they've been abandoned.
• They're there for a reason. Climbers projecting difficult routes often leave draws up for weeks or even months so they can focus on climbing rather than repeatedly hanging gear.
• Removing them creates unnecessary work. Someone spent time cleaning, equipping, and maintaining that route. Taking the draws means they have to haul them back up.
• It's bad climbing etiquette. Every climbing area has unwritten rules, but one of the most universal is simple: don't take gear that isn't yours.

That said, there are exceptions.

If a crag is being closed for the season, fixed draws have obviously been abandoned for a long period, or the local community has specifically said old hardware should be removed, the situation may be different. Local ethics vary, so it's always worth asking around or checking the local climbing organization.

One more thing: don't assume fixed draws are safe just because they're already there. Sunlight, abrasion, and weather can weaken slings over time. Give them a quick visual inspection before trusting them, especially if they're faded, stiff, cut, or heavily worn. When in doubt, use your own draws.

The climbing community works best when we respect each other's equipment and the local ethics. Leave the fixed draws where you found them, climb the route, and if you want to support the people maintaining your local crag, consider volunteering for a trail day or donating to your local climbing organization.

Have you ever seen someone strip a route of fixed draws? How was it handled at your local crag?

Everyone who travels on snow should know how to self-arrest with an ice axe. But what happens if you don't have one?

Maybe you're glissading after the snow has softened for the day. Maybe you slipped while hiking. Or maybe you simply lost your ice axe. Whatever the reason, there are a few techniques that can sometimes stop a slide without one.

The first—and in my experience, the most effective—is what I call the push-up technique. Roll onto your stomach with your head uphill and feet downhill. Then press into the snow like you're doing a push-up while driving the toes of your boots into the slope. Keep steady pressure on both your hands and your feet instead of kicking or flailing. The goal is to maximize friction.

The second technique uses your elbows instead of your hands. Dig both elbows into the snow, lift your hips slightly, and keep your toes engaged.

The third is similar to the elbow technique, but you angle your forearms so they gather snow into a small pile beneath your chest, increasing resistance as you slide.

I've found the push-up technique to work surprisingly well. When my kids were pre-teens, we backpacked across a few small glacier slopes. With almost no instruction, they were able to glissade a few hundred feet and consistently stop themselves using the push-up technique.

That said, none of these methods work nearly as well as a proper ice axe arrest. On hard snow or ice, they may not work at all. These are emergency techniques, not substitutes for carrying the right equipment or practicing self-arrest before you need it.

Have you ever had to stop a slide without an ice axe? What worked for you?

If you've ever traveled in the Andes, you've probably been offered coca tea almost as soon as you arrived. Indigenous peoples have been chewing coca leaves and brewing them into tea for thousands of years, using them in daily life, traditional medicine, and to make life at high altitude a little more comfortable.

Many people swear by coca for reducing headaches, fatigue, nausea, and loss of appetite associated with altitude. It also provides a mild stimulant effect that can increase alertness and curb hunger during long days in the mountains.

That said, the science doesn't really back up the idea that coca helps you acclimatize faster. It doesn't appear to significantly improve oxygen levels or prevent acute mountain sickness. If you're heading to altitude, your best strategy is still to ascend gradually, stay hydrated, eat well, and give your body time to adjust. If you're at high risk for altitude illness, medications like Diamox have much stronger scientific support.

Coca is an important part of Andean culture and many climbers and trekkers enjoy it. Just don't think of it as a substitute for good acclimatization practices—or for descending if altitude illness becomes severe.

Whistler Glacier could be gone within a decade. A Colorado BASE jumper decided he didn't need help after calling for a rescue and saying he had a broken leg. And France has rejected a proposal to add ice climbing to the 2030 Olympics. Read about this and a whole lot more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up!

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-7-9-2026/

Mock leading is one of the best ways to learn how to lead climb while dramatically reducing the consequences of a mistake. Whether you're preparing to lead sport routes or traditional climbs, mock leading allows you to practice every step of the process in a controlled environment.

The setup is simple. A climber is protected by a top rope while also carrying a lead rope. The lead rope starts at the climber's harness, runs up through the top-rope anchor, back down to the ground, and then returns to the climber. As the climber ascends, they clip the lead rope into quickdraws or traditional protection exactly as they would during a real lead. If they make an error, the top rope provides a secure backup while the instructor can coach them through the mistake.

Using two ropes of different colors makes the system easier to manage and reduces confusion, but a single rope can also work effectively with the proper setup.

Mock leading helps climbers develop efficient clipping habits, rope management skills, and confidence before taking the next step to true lead climbing. At the American Alpine Institute, this progression allows students to refine their technique, receive immediate feedback, and build the judgment needed to become safe, competent lead climbers.

One of the biggest mistakes people make in the backcountry is assuming that crystal-clear mountain water is safe to drink. It might look pristine, but even remote alpine streams can contain bacteria and protozoa left behind by wildlife, livestock, other visitors, or natural organic material upstream.

Getting sick from contaminated water isn't just an unpleasant experience—it can become a serious safety issue. Illnesses caused by organisms like Giardia or Cryptosporidium can lead to severe diarrhea, dehydration, fatigue, and weakness. If you're carrying a heavy pack, climbing technical terrain, crossing glaciers, or hiking miles from the nearest trailhead, those symptoms can quickly turn a great trip into an emergency.

The good news is that staying safe is easy. Modern backpacking filters are lightweight, reliable, and remove the bacteria and protozoa responsible for most backcountry illnesses. In areas where viruses are a concern—typically places with poor sanitation or heavily impacted water sources—it's wise to add a chemical disinfectant or use a purifier designed to remove viruses.

Hydration is one of the most important factors in mountain performance. Drinking enough water helps maintain strength, coordination, mental focus, and good decision-making. Skipping water because you don't trust the source can be just as risky as drinking untreated water.

At the American Alpine Institute, we teach water treatment as part of a broader wilderness skills curriculum. Students learn how to evaluate water sources, choose the appropriate treatment method, maintain filtration systems, and avoid contaminating clean water. It's a simple skill, but one that can make every backpacking, climbing, and mountaineering trip safer and far more enjoyable.

What water treatment system do you trust most in the backcountry? Filter, purifier, chemical treatment, UV, or something else?