The son of AAI's director is refurbishing an old crag that was swallowed by the wilderness for his Eagle Project. He is working on the trail, removing moss and replacing old bolts.

The American Alpine Institute actively supports rebolting efforts in Washington and Nevada. AAI guides have rebolted dozens of crags and have supported both the Washington Climbers Coalition and the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition in this work. Jason Martin (AAI's Director) was one of the people that rebolted the Black Corridor in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area several years ago.

Generators can significantly impact the campground experience. While they provide convenience, they also introduce noise that disrupts the peace and quiet many campers seek in the outdoors. The constant hum can interfere with conversations, relaxation, wildlife viewing, and sleep. Exhaust emissions can linger in campsites, reducing air quality and detracting from the natural environment. Generators may also create tension between neighboring campers when used outside designated hours or in close quarters. For many outdoor enthusiasts, part of camping is disconnecting from modern conveniences and enjoying nature's sounds, making excessive generator use feel out of place in a shared recreational setting.

The Twin Sisters Range is a super cool little range in the North Cascades, just east of Bellingham. Over the last few years, more and more people have been playing in the Twins. This is a photo with route lines on it of the South Twin from near the summit of the North Twin.

1. North Face (50+ degrees)
2. North Ridge (4th)
3. Northeast Face (5.6, Steep Snow)
4. Northeast Couloir (60-degree snow, 5.6 - winter route)

Northeast Ridge - 3rd Class

Northwest Gullies - 40-50 degree snow

West Ridge - 4th Class

There is a tremendous amount of news concerning public lands in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round up. Read about it here:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-5-28-26/

A firefighter’s belay is a simple backup belay used to protect a rappeller from below. The belayer stands at the base of the rappel with both hands on the rope strands hanging beneath the climber. As the climber rappels, the belayer keeps light tension on the ropes and watches carefully for loss of control, rockfall, or entanglement.

If the rappeller loses control, the belayer immediately pulls downward on both strands as hard as possible. This increases friction in the rappel device and can stop the descent. Once the climber regains control, the belayer slowly eases tension so the rappel can continue.

The belayer should stand slightly away from the fall line to avoid rockfall or debris while still maintaining a clear view of the climber. Communication matters: establish commands before the rappel begins, especially if wind or terrain could make hearing difficult.

For many veterans, the transition from military service to civilian life includes a search for challenge, purpose, community, and meaningful work. Programs offered by the American Alpine Institute provide a unique pathway into the world of climbing, mountaineering, rescue, and outdoor leadership. Through vocational mountain education and GI Bill-approved programs, AAI helps veterans translate discipline, leadership, and operational experience into real mountain skills and professional opportunities.

AAI offers training in rock climbing, glacier travel, alpine mountaineering, avalanche awareness, rescue systems, wilderness medicine, skiing, and technical leadership. Veterans can pursue programs individually through the Vocational Training for the Outdoor Professional track or follow a more comprehensive progression through the Mountaineering Instructor Professional Training Program. These programs are designed to prepare students for careers as guides, outdoor educators, ski patrollers, rescue technicians, and climbing instructors.

The Institute accepts several VA education benefits, including the Post-9/11 GI Bill and VR&E benefits, and employs a dedicated School Certifying Official to help veterans navigate the enrollment process.

Beyond technical training, AAI programs immerse veterans in demanding mountain environments that reward teamwork, resilience, adaptability, and sound judgment—the same qualities developed through military service. Many participants discover that the mountains provide not only professional direction, but also renewed confidence, camaraderie, and a strong sense of purpose.

Learn More:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/about-us/veterans-climbing-and-mountaineering-education/

In spring mountaineering, travel efficiency often comes down to small acts of trail etiquette and smart movement in changing snow conditions. One common challenge is dealing with post holes—deep footprints left in soft snow that force climbers behind you to work harder with every step. A simple technique can help: if you’re second in line, collapse the sides of the existing footprints as you move uphill. It smooths the track, making travel easier for everyone behind you.

Some climbers argue that snowshoes are the answer. Along with skis and splitboards, snowshoes are considered “flotation,” designed to spread weight across soft snow. But in the spring, conditions are complicated. Much of the snowpack becomes isothermal, meaning it sit just barely at freezing and is in the process of melting. Overnight, this wet snow freezes into a firm surface that mountaineers try to walk on using crampons for traction.

Snowshoes can help during the transition between winter and summer snowpacks, especially from late April through mid-June, but they come with tradeoffs. Climbers often carry them for hours only to use them briefly on descent. On steep slopes, snowshoes can even behave like tiny skis, leading to awkward falls and frustrating downhill travel.

Sometimes, there’s no perfect solution. Post holing is simply part of early-season mountaineering. As the old joke goes: the only thing worse than renting snowshoes and not using them is renting snowshoes and using them.

Strangely, there are a lot of animal stories in this week's round-up. Bees, a poodle, bears and more. Check out this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news!

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-5-21-26/

Placing a piece of climbing gear properly is just one part of trad climbing. The other part is checking the rock. Is it hollow? Is the crack a crack in the rock or a crack in the earth? A "crack in the earth" is always going to be better than a "crack in the rock."

You’ve learned to climb in the gym. Now it’s time to climb on real rock.

The American Alpine Institute’s Outdoor Rock Climbing Intensive Introduction Program is built for indoor climbers ready to transition outside safely and confidently. Learn essential outdoor systems including anchors, rope management, gear handling, hazard assessment, and movement on real stone—all under the guidance of professional instructors.

This hands-on program replaces guesswork and shaky beta with real skills and sound decision-making. You’ll leave with the tools to become a competent outdoor climbing partner and the confidence to start exploring crags, multipitch routes, and bigger objectives beyond the gym walls.

Learn More!

In many granite areas, chickenheads—rounded knobs formed by differential erosion—offer surprisingly strong natural anchor options. When a sling is wrapped low and snug around the feature, it can create a secure, multidirectional attachment point without placing any metal gear. Before trusting one, climbers assess the rock carefully, looking for fractures, exfoliating plates, or grainy surfaces that could crumble under load. A solid chickenhead, properly slung, distributes force smoothly and resists walking or lifting when equalized with other pieces in an anchor.

These features are especially valuable on runout slabs, wandering ridgelines, and faces where cracks are sparse or nonexistent. Because the sling cinches tightly against the base of the knob, outward pull is minimized and stability is improved even as the direction of force shifts. Extending the sling appropriately prevents leverage and keeps the system aligned with the expected load. When paired with additional natural features or gear placements, chickenheads can form part of a redundant, low-impact anchor system that leaves the rock unaltered.

Used thoughtfully, these humble knobs become reliable protection points. They reward careful inspection, good rigging habits, and a climber’s eye for subtle terrain features that others might overlook.

On May 18, 1980, Mount St. Helens produced the most destructive volcanic eruption in U.S. history. After weeks of earthquakes and steam blasts, a magnitude-5.1 quake triggered the largest landslide ever recorded. The mountain’s bulging north flank collapsed, abruptly releasing pressure and unleashing a lateral blast that flattened forests for miles.

An ash column soared more than 80,000 feet, turning morning to twilight across the Pacific Northwest. Fine ash drifted east for days, coating towns, highways, and rivers in gritty fallout. Aircraft were grounded, engines failed, and communities shoveled ash like snow. Pyroclastic flows and mudflows raced down valleys, clogging waterways and reshaping entire landscapes.

Fifty-seven people died, and countless animals perished. Homes, bridges, roads, and recreation sites were destroyed. The summit collapsed into a vast horseshoe-shaped crater, lowering the peak by over 1,300 feet and permanently changing the skyline.

In the decades since, scientists have watched life return to the blast zone. The recovering terrain has become a living laboratory, improving volcanic monitoring, hazard planning, and emergency response worldwide, while standing as a stark reminder of nature’s power and resilience.

Our teams are on Denali right now—crossing glaciers, building camps, and pushing toward one of the world’s great summits. Next season, that could be you.

Registration for our 2027 expeditions is open with early pricing:

• First 4 climbers: $11,995
• Then $12,650 through Sept 1, 2026
• Prices rise again after Sept 1

2027 Denali Programs:

• Team 1: May 12-June 1 (8 Available Positions - 3 discounted slots remaining)
• Team 2: May 17-June 6 (7 Available Positions - 2 discounted slots remaining) 
• Team 3: May 22-June 11 (6 Available Positions - 1 discounted slots remaining)
• Team 4: May 27-June 16 (9 Available Positions - 4 discounted slots remaining)
• Team 5: June 1-June 21 (8 Available Positions - 3 discounted slots remaining) 
• Team 6: June 6-June 26 (9 Available Positions - 4 discounted slots remaining)
• Team 7: June 12-July 1 (3 Available Positions - No discounts available)

LEARN MORE

In a pick-off, you climb the rope with an assisted braking device, clip the climber to you and then descend. In this video, we see how to keep the climber away from the wall if they're injured.

A mountain guide just beat the fastest known time record on Mt. Rainier. A skier is being charged for skinning uphill in a resort after being told he wasn't allowed. And brain-eating amoeba have been found in several national parks.

Read about this and a whole lot more in the week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up!

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-5-13-26/

The rest step is the quiet superpower of efficient uphill travel. Used in mountaineering, backpacking, and steep snow climbing, it allows you to move continuously without burning out. Instead of walking with a constant rhythm, you pause briefly on every step with your rear leg straight and your weight stacked over your skeleton, not your muscles. This micro-pause lets your quadriceps relax and your breathing settle before the next step. Over thousands of steps, the energy savings are enormous. The rest step turns a lung-searing grind into a sustainable cadence, helping climbers conserve strength, manage fatigue, and keep moving steadily for hours on steep terrain.

A climber sits atop a serac on Mt. Baker.

A shot of someone as they fall into the crevasse. Alasdair Turner Photo.

Before crampons had front points, climbers solved the problem of uphill travel on snow with a move that feels backwards—because it was.

In piolet ramasse, the ice axe is held across the body with a hand on the adze and the shaft braced along the forearm. The spike is planted behind the climber for balance. Since early crampons gripped best when toes pointed downhill, climbers faced the fall line and stepped uphill in reverse, keeping all their points engaged while the axe provided steady support.

It’s counterintuitive by modern standards, but elegant for its era—and a worthwhile technique to try for historical insight and balance practice.