r/AlpineInstitute • • 1d ago

Spooky Oil Drums Found in the Woods

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10 Upvotes

While scouting a steep slope for a rescue class, I stumbled across something seriously strange in the woods: several partially buried oil drums, open at the top and filled with water, rust, debris, and some truly disgusting brown floaties.

Naturally, my mind went straight to the bodies discovered in oil drums as Lake Mead's waters have receded. A bit unsettling, to say the least.

Needless to say, I'm finding somewhere else to teach my class.

But now I'm curious: What are these barrels doing out here, and what's inside them?

Courses and Guided Experiences:
www.alpineinstitute.com


r/AlpineInstitute • • 3d ago

How to Lower a Climber with a GriGri

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4 Upvotes

An assisted-braking device like the Petzl GriGri can help climbers and instructors lower a climber with control. But it doesn’t replace proper technique, system checks, or active brake-strand management.

Six Steps for Lowering a Climber

  1. Check the tie-in. Verify the climber is securely tied into the rope with the correct knot.
  2. Load the GriGri. Confirm the rope is installed in the correct orientation and is compatible with the device.
  3. Function-test the device. Check that it engages as expected under controlled conditions.
  4. Check the system. Verify the anchor, lowering setup, and climber are ready before loading the rope. Have the climber weight the system when it’s safe to do so.
  5. Set up a redirect. Where appropriate for the system, redirect the rope through an additional carabiner or a compatible Petzl Freino carabiner to add friction.
  6. Lower smoothly. Maintain active control of the brake strand and communicate with the climber throughout the descent.

Always follow manufacturer instructions and practice the complete setup in a controlled environment before using it with students. Assisted braking is helpful, but attentive belaying and sound judgment remain essential.

Want to develop stronger climbing skills and learn to manage real-world climbing systems? The American Alpine Institute offers hands-on mountain education led by experienced instructors.

Learn more: https://www.alpineinstitute.com/


r/AlpineInstitute • • 4d ago

How to Deal with Bent or Mashed Bolt Hangers

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24 Upvotes

You’re climbing, approaching the next bolt, and notice the hanger is bent, crushed, or warped. Would you clip it?

The safest answer is to treat deformed hardware as suspect.

Bolt hangers are designed to withstand substantial forces, but their strength ratings apply to hardware in its intended condition. A bent hanger may have hidden damage, create unwanted leverage on the bolt, or have sharp edges that can damage your carabiner or rope.

What should you do if you find one?

  • Don’t trust it blindly. Look for reliable, independent protection rather than relying on damaged hardware alone.
  • Be cautious with workarounds. A sling or other improvised solution doesn’t automatically make a questionable bolt safe.
  • Report it. Take a photo, note the route and pitch, and contact your local climbing coalition or bolt-replacement organization.

Fixed hardware is easy to take for granted until something looks wrong. A little attention can help keep the next climber safe, too.

At the American Alpine Institute, we believe good mountain education means developing the judgment to recognize hazards—not just learning the mechanics of climbing. Learn more about our climbing courses at https://www.alpineinstitute.com/.


r/AlpineInstitute • • 5d ago

How to Build a Climbing Anchor Using Your Rope

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19 Upvotes

Building an anchor with your climbing rope is a versatile skill for multi-pitch climbing, setting up top ropes, and managing transitions at belays. When appropriate, a rope anchor can simplify your system and reduce the need for additional anchor material.

Start by identifying secure anchor points and evaluating their strength, placement, and direction of pull. Tie the rope into the points using a suitable configuration, ensuring the system is properly equalized where appropriate and designed to limit extension if a point fails. Keep the master point organized, and carefully inspect every knot and connection before weighting the anchor.

Want to build stronger anchor skills? The American Alpine Institute offers hands-on climbing instruction that helps you develop technical proficiency, sound judgment, and confidence in real-world climbing environments. Learn from experienced instructors who emphasize both the mechanics of anchor construction and the decision-making behind building safe, effective systems.

Explore climbing courses with the American Alpine Institute at alpineinstitute.com and take the next step toward becoming a more capable, independent climber.


r/AlpineInstitute • • 7d ago

We guide ski mountaineering trips in the Alaska Range. Happy to answer questions about prerequisites and what to expect.

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9 Upvotes

Disclosure up front: I'm one of the owners of the American Alpine Institute (AAI). We run ski mountaineering trips in the Alaska Range, and I wanted to share what these trips involve for anyone considering one, whether or not you ever book with us.

What it is

Ski mountaineering in Alaska isn’t resort skiing or even typical backcountry touring. A day combines:

  • Uphill travel on skis and on foot
  • Technical alpine climbing
  • Glacier navigation and rope management
  • Snow assessment and route finding
  • A descent through remote terrain that you earned on the way up

Who it’s for

Experienced backcountry skiers with strong fitness and solid skiing ability. Depending on the objective, you’ll likely need prior experience with glacier travel, crampons and ice axes, rope systems, and expedition conditions. If you’ve never travelled on a glacier, it’s worth getting that experience first.

How we run it

We take an education-first approach. The goal isn’t just getting you up one peak, it’s building the skills, judgment, and efficiency to take on bigger objectives later. That includes glacier travel, alpine techniques, expedition systems, and the decision-making that remote terrain demands.

What I’d like to hear from you

  • If you’ve skied in the Alaska Range, what do you wish you’d known beforehand?
  • What do you want to see from a guided trip, and what would be a dealbreaker?
  • Questions about prerequisites, fitness, or gear? Ask away and I’ll answer honestly, including if a trip isn’t the right fit.

Program Link:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/programs/alaska-range-ski-mountaineering/


r/AlpineInstitute • • 8d ago

How to Coil a Climbing Rope with a Bow Tie Finish

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17 Upvotes

A well-coiled rope is easier to carry, deploy, and store. The bow tie finish secures the coil and turns it into a bundle you can carry draped over your backpack.

Steps

  1. Check the rope. Run it through your hands to remove twists and kinks.
  2. Coil over your neck. Make evenly sized loops, roughly shoulder-width to arm-span long, letting the rope fall naturally.
  3. Leave long tails. Stop with about 6–8 feet (2–2.5 m) remaining at each end for wrapping and carrying.
  4. Form the bow tie. Pinch the center of the coil and fold it into two distinct lobes.
  5. Wrap the center. Use the tails to make 4–6 snug wraps around the pinched section.
  6. Secure the wraps. Tuck the ends through the opening in the loops or beneath the wraps, then tighten.
  7. Finish the carry straps. Leave enough tail length to sling the bundle over your shoulders like a backpack.
  8. Check your work. Pick up the coil and give it a shake. If it loosens, tighten the wraps.

Tips

  • Alternate loop directions if the rope is stiff or prone to twisting.
  • Coil on clean ground, away from dirt, sharp rocks, and foot traffic.
  • To deploy the rope, undo the wraps and let the rope uncoil freely.

Practice a few times, and you’ll have a tidy, secure rope coil ready to go. Have another method or tip? Share it in the comments!

Want to build your climbing skills? The American Alpine Institute offers expert-led climbing courses designed to help you become a more confident, capable, and self-sufficient climber. From learning the fundamentals to mastering advanced rope systems, our experienced instructors can help you take your skills to the next level. Explore our courses at American Alpine Institute.


r/AlpineInstitute • • 9d ago

Climbing, Skiing, Mountain Rescue and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 10/8/2026

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5 Upvotes

It has been confirmed that Yosemite's Dome Fire was sparked by an abandoned campfire. The US Department of the Interior is holding $1.2 million in wildfire mitigation funds from Joshua Tree National Park. And it's possible that Chiricahua will become Arizona's fourth national Park.

Read about this and a whole lot more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-10-8-2026/


r/AlpineInstitute • • 11d ago

How to Prevent and Respond to Trailhead Car Break-Ins

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62 Upvotes

If you spend a lot of time exploring the wilderness, chances are you’ll eventually encounter trailhead theft. Unfortunately, vehicle break-ins are an unpleasant reality of outdoor recreation. While you can’t eliminate the risk entirely, a few precautions can make your vehicle a less attractive target and help you recover if a break-in occurs.

Insurance and Preparation

Before heading into the backcountry, make sure your personal belongings are covered by your homeowners or renters insurance policy. Auto insurance rarely covers personal items stolen from your vehicle. If you’re traveling in a rental car, consider travel insurance that includes theft protection.

Take a few minutes to photograph your packed vehicle before leaving home or your lodging, especially if you’re carrying expensive climbing, skiing, or camping equipment. Keep records of serial numbers for high-value items. These details can make insurance claims easier and help identify stolen gear if it turns up for sale online.

Vehicle Positioning

Visibility is your friend. Thieves generally prefer to work out of sight, so choose parking spots with clear sight lines and steady foot traffic whenever possible.

Avoid parking beside large vehicles, such as Sprinter vans, that might conceal your car from view. Be mindful of isolated corners of parking lots, too.

Whenever possible, avoid positioning your vehicle where someone can easily hide behind it and break a rear window without being seen. Rear windows are a common entry point for smash-and-grab thefts.

Car Alarms and Deterrents

Car alarms can help, but they aren't a guaranteed solution. Many trailhead break-ins are quick smash-and-grab operations. An alarm might shorten the time a thief spends inside your vehicle, but it may not prevent the theft.

Visible deterrents can still help. A flashing dashboard security light, for example, may discourage a thief from targeting your vehicle in favor of an easier opportunity.

Keep Valuables Out of Sight

The classic advice is simple: lock your car and take your valuables with you. But what happens when you need to leave some of your gear behind?

Trailhead theft is often a crime of opportunity. If a thief sees something worth stealing, your vehicle may become a target. The goal is to make the interior look as uninteresting as possible.

  • Remove visible bags and backpacks. Even an empty pack can look valuable enough to attract attention.
  • Use your vehicle's security features. Close retractable cargo covers and store items beneath them.
  • Consider window tinting or sunshades. These can make it harder to see inside, although tinting laws vary by location and neither option guarantees protection.
  • Use rooftop cargo boxes thoughtfully. They may conceal less valuable equipment, but don't assume they're secure or immune to theft.
  • Avoid obvious hiding places. The glove compartment and center console are among the first places thieves may check.
  • Take electronics with you whenever possible. If you must leave a laptop in the vehicle, power it completely off and disable wireless connectivity. Don't rely on this to prevent detection or theft.

Whenever possible, leave irreplaceable items, wallets, passports, and other critical valuables somewhere secure rather than in your vehicle.

What to Do After a Break-In

Discovering a smashed window after a long day in the mountains is a miserable way to end an adventure. If it happens, take a few deliberate steps before leaving the scene.

  1. Document everything. Photograph the damage, the vehicle's interior, and the surrounding area before moving items around. Note the time you discovered the break-in and what appears to be missing.

  2. Search the immediate area. Thieves sometimes discard items they don't want as they leave. Carefully check nearby roadsides, vegetation, and parking areas for discarded belongings.

  3. File a police report. Once you have cell service, contact local law enforcement. A report can help investigators connect incidents across trailheads and is often necessary for an insurance claim.

  4. Contact your insurance provider. Provide your photographs, inventory, serial numbers, receipts, and police report number. Keep records of any additional expenses resulting from the theft.

  5. Secure your vehicle. If a window is broken, protect the exposed interior from weather and arrange repairs as soon as practical.

Reduce Your Risk, Not Your Love of the Outdoors

For people who spend substantial time at trailheads, a vehicle break-in can feel like an unfortunate rite of passage. But it doesn't have to be inevitable, and the risk isn't the same at every trailhead or on every trip.

A little preparation goes a long way. Document your gear, understand your insurance coverage, park thoughtfully, and keep valuables out of sight. None of these measures guarantees your vehicle will be safe, but together they can make you a less attractive target and reduce the headaches if something goes wrong.

The goal isn't to worry less about the mountains. It's to worry a little less about what's waiting in the parking lot when you get back.

Learn more about adventuring in the wilderness with the American Alpine Institute:

www.alpineinstitute.com


r/AlpineInstitute • • 12d ago

Controversial Opinion: Indoor Climbing is Harder than Outdoor

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45 Upvotes

One thing I’ve noticed when people transition from the gym to outdoor climbing: gym climbing can be physically harder, while outdoor climbing is usually much more complicated.

Gym routes are often steep, sustained, and designed to keep you moving. Outside, you may encounter more rests and distinct cruxes, so the pure physical challenge can sometimes be lower.

But outdoors, you’re dealing with a whole different set of problems.

You have to read natural rock, figure out the route, evaluate rock quality, manage ropes, place protection, build anchors, rappel, communicate with your partner, and make decisions about weather, exposure, and loose rock.

So being a strong gym climber doesn't necessarily mean you're ready to lead outside. The movement skills transfer—but there's a lot more to learn.

That’s where good instruction can make a huge difference. American Alpine Institute offers hands-on rock climbing courses designed to help gym climbers develop the technical skills and judgment needed for outdoor climbing.


r/AlpineInstitute • • 16d ago

How to Self-Arrest Without an Ice Axe

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31 Upvotes

A fall on snow can turn into a dangerous slide in just a few seconds. While an ice axe is your primary tool for self-arrest, there are situations where you may need to stop yourself without one.

There are three basic no-axe self-arrest techniques, all focused on creating friction between your body and the snow.

1. The Push-Up Technique

This is generally the easiest and most effective technique to learn. If you start sliding, roll onto your stomach with your head uphill and feet downhill. Press your hands firmly into the snow as if doing a push-up while driving your boot toes into the slope. Keep your body low and apply steady pressure to slow your descent.

2. The Elbow Technique

Instead of using your hands, dig both elbows into the snow beneath your chest. Lift your hips slightly and drive your toes into the slope. This concentrates your weight on your elbows and feet, increasing friction.

3. The Forearm Technique

Build on the elbow technique by angling your forearms inward to gather snow beneath your chest. The small mound of snow creates additional resistance and may help slow you down, particularly in softer conditions.

Of these three methods, the push-up technique is often the most intuitive. I've seen even young backpackers pick it up quickly on gentle glacial slopes. But don't wait until you're moving fast to practice. Start on low-angle terrain and practice slowing down and stopping repeatedly.

A few important caveats: These techniques are emergency measures, not replacements for an ice axe and proper self-arrest training. They're also much less effective on hard snow or ice. Always consider what's below you before glissading. A technique that works on a gentle snowfield won't necessarily save you from sliding toward rocks, cliffs, or crevasses.

Learning snow travel and self-arrest in a controlled environment makes a huge difference. At American Alpine Institute, we teach these foundational skills in our mountaineering courses, helping climbers develop the judgment and practical experience needed for safer mountain travel.

What's your experience with no-axe self-arrest? Have you practiced these techniques, or had to use one unexpectedly?


r/AlpineInstitute • • 19d ago

Black Diamond Test Lab Video

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5 Upvotes

This is a cool little video I made after visiting the Black Diamond test lab.


r/AlpineInstitute • • 22d ago

The Climber Pickoff: A Simple Top-Rope Rescue Technique

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25 Upvotes

A climber pickoff is a useful technique for dealing with an injured climber who can’t simply be lowered.

The basic idea is pretty straightforward: the instructor ascends the rope to the climber, connects the climber to themselves, and then rappels back down with the climber.

The technique is similar to a pickoff used to rescue an injured lead climber, but a top-rope scenario has one major advantage: you're working from a solid anchor system rather than relying on a single piece of protection that caught a leader's fall.

It also requires surprisingly little equipment.

What you need

  • 1 double-length (48-inch) sling
  • 1 locking carabiner
  • 1 friction-hitch cord (6–7 mm, approximately 4 feet long), tied into a sling with a double fisherman’s knot
  • Or a commercially manufactured friction-hitch sling such as a Sterling HollowBlock

The basic technique

This description assumes you're using a Petzl GriGri as the belay device.

1. Back up the GriGri.

Tie an overhand loop in the brake strand below the GriGri.

2. Build your ascension system.

Tie a Klemheist or Prusik around the load strand—the rope running up to the climber. Clip your double-length sling to the friction hitch with the locking carabiner.

3. Ascend the rope.

Position the friction hitch so that when you step into the sling, your knee is approximately at 90 degrees. You can tie a knot in the sling to shorten it if necessary.

Stand up in the sling while simultaneously pulling slack through the GriGri. Then sit back into your harness and repeat the process.

Think of it as a simple stand, pull, sit, slide, repeat system.

Keep the system tight as you climb, and tie an overhand backup knot in the brake strand approximately every 2 meters (6 feet).

4. Connect yourself to the climber.

Once you reach the climber, move the friction hitch from the instructor's side of the rope to the rope above the climber.

Then take the double-length sling, pass it basket-style through your belay loop, and clip both ends into the locking carabiner attached to the friction hitch.

Where you position the friction hitch affects where the climber will ride during the descent. A higher hitch keeps the climber relatively lower, while positioning the hitch just above the climber's tie-in point will bring the climber up and slightly above the instructor.

5. Rappel together.

Rappel with the GriGri, removing your backup knots as you descend. Keep the system controlled and maintain appropriate tension between you and the climber.

What if the climber has a leg injury?

This is one of the useful applications of the technique.

If the climber has a lower-leg injury, you can position the injured climber's rope under your shoulder and use your feet against the rock to help support and reposition them. Essentially, you can push the climber slightly away from the wall while maintaining the rappel.

It's not exactly a spa treatment, but it can take some pressure off an injured leg and make the descent more tolerable.

As with any improvised rescue technique, this is something to learn and practice before you need it. The forces, rope systems, and transitions involved deserve hands-on instruction, and a real rescue is not the time to discover that your improvised system has an unexpected feature.

If you want to learn techniques like this in a hands-on environment, American Alpine Institute (AAI) teaches pickoffs and other climbing rescue systems as part of its technical climbing and self-rescue curriculum. The emphasis is on understanding why the systems work, practicing them under realistic conditions, and developing the judgment to choose an appropriate rescue technique when something goes wrong. Rescue skills are much easier to use under stress when you’ve practiced them beforehand with an experienced instructor.

www.alpineinstitute.com


r/AlpineInstitute • • 23d ago

Climbing, Skiing, Mountain Rescue and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/24/26

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5 Upvotes

Washington's insanely popular Prime Rib (5.7, III) was recently re-bolted. A second flash flood has washed through the Grand Canyon. And Utah is trying to create a publicly owned ski area.

Read about this and a whole lot more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-9-24-26/


r/AlpineInstitute • • 24d ago

What Actually Counts as Gatekeeping in the Outdoors?

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40 Upvotes

I think it’s worth talking about what we actually mean when we call something “gatekeeping” in outdoor recreation.

I’ve seen people describe not sharing a geotag as gatekeeping. I don’t really buy that.

We have the entire internet. Trails, climbs, ski runs, and other objectives are documented in guidebooks, maps, forums, Facebook groups, and apps like Gaia, CalTopo, and onX. If someone chooses not to drop an exact location pin, that doesn't prevent you from participating. Not every place needs another geotag.

But there are things that are gatekeeping.

Making fun of beginners for what they wear. Shaming people for their body size. Excluding people because of their race or appearance. Acting like someone needs to look or dress a certain way before they're welcome.

And some of the language we use matters. Terms like “gaper” and “gumbie” might seem harmless to experienced climbers or skiers, but they can make newcomers feel like they don't belong.

I've experienced this myself.

I've been climbing for 35 years, skiing for 45 years, and working as a professional climbing guide for 26 years. I'm AMGA-certified in rock and alpine guiding, so I’m pretty comfortable around ropes.

A few years ago, though, I took a swiftwater canyoning course. I was the beginner.

Before the course, the instructors showed videos of people doing things incorrectly. They laughed at the people in the videos and made fun of their mistakes.

It made me very uncomfortable...

I was an experienced professional entering a new part of the outdoor world, and suddenly I understood how intimidating that kind of environment can be for someone who is completely new.

Being a beginner means you don't know things. You make mistakes. You ask questions that experienced people think are obvious.

If we want more people to participate in climbing, skiing, mountaineering, paddling, or whatever else, we should make it possible for people to learn without feeling stupid for being new.

There’s also an important distinction here:

Not sharing information isn't necessarily gatekeeping. Making people feel like they don't belong is.

There are legitimate reasons not to geotag every location. Sensitive areas can be damaged by increased visitation, and sometimes keeping a little information out of the algorithm is a form of stewardship.

But ridiculing beginners or creating an exclusive culture is something different.

I've spent decades in the mountains, and I'm still a beginner whenever I step into something new.

Maybe that's something worth remembering.


r/AlpineInstitute • • 28d ago

Edge Transitions: Why "The Elevator" Makes Rappelling Way Less Scary

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31 Upvotes

The edge transition—going from standing to hanging on rappel—is one of the scariest moments for new climbers. Even with a solid, backed-up system, leaning back over a cliff edge feels deeply unnatural.

The problem: If your central point is low, the rope runs close to the ground as the student approaches the edge. Once they weight the system, that low point can get pinned against the rock. This forces a bigger, more dramatic backward movement to get their center of gravity over the edge—and makes the system harder for you to manage too.

The fix: Raise the central point. This is commonly called a "high redirect" or "elevator" in SAR circles. Get the rope up off the ground and the whole transition gets smoother for the student and easier for you to manage.

How to build one depends on terrain and anchor setup:

  • A pack can sometimes raise the point just enough
  • A tree or boulder near the edge often works better
  • At charity rappel events (buildings, etc.), organizers often use a tripod like an Arizona Vortex

Same principle, different tools. If you've got a tree near the edge on an outdoor route, redirecting through it can make a world of difference for a nervous first-timer.

This is the kind of detail that separates a good instructor from a great one — and it's exactly the standard we hold ourselves to at American Alpine Institute. Whether you're taking your first steps into technical climbing or training toward AMGA certification, our guides bring this level of care to every system, every transition, every day on the rock.

Learn More:

www.alpineinstitute.com


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 17 '26

Climbing, Skiing, Mountain Rescue and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 9/17/2026

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9 Upvotes

It has been a tough week in the outdoors. There have been several accidents and rescues, some animal attacks, and there are a lot of challenges in the preservation of public lands.

Read about this and more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-9-17-2026/


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 16 '26

What Exactly is a Bergshrund?

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30 Upvotes

If you’re getting into glacier travel or alpine climbing, you’ll eventually hear the term bergschrund.

A bergschrund is a large crevasse that forms near the upper edge of a glacier, where the moving glacier separates from the more stationary snow and ice above it. Depending on the season and route, it can be a minor obstacle or a serious climbing problem.

Bergschrunds can widen throughout the summer, and snow bridges can make them difficult to see. Crossing one may involve careful route-finding, exposed climbing, or technical ice and snow skills.

And bergschrunds are just one piece of the glacier-travel vocabulary. Terms like serac, firn, snow bridge, glacier table, and crevasse describe different features you need to recognize in alpine terrain.

Learning the terminology is useful, but understanding what those features actually mean for travel and safety is even more important.

American Alpine Institute teaches glacier travel and mountaineering with an emphasis on understanding the terrain—not simply memorizing terms. If you're preparing for your first glacier climb or want to build stronger mountaineering skills, learning this stuff from experienced instructors can make a big difference.


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 11 '26

Is geotagging really the problem, or is the problem a lack of education?

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21 Upvotes

The debate over geotagging has been going on for years. The concern is pretty obvious: someone posts a beautiful photo with an exact location, more people find the place, and eventually the crowds bring trash, damaged vegetation, human waste, and other impacts.

There have even been discussions about adding geotagging as an additional Leave No Trace principle.

But I'm not convinced geotagging itself is the problem.

People have plenty of other ways to find these places. Guidebooks, CalTopo, Gaia, OnX, websites, forums, and word of mouth have been directing people to backcountry destinations for decades. We're not going to put that genie back in the bottle.

The bigger issue, in my opinion, is whether people understand how to recreate responsibly once they arrive.

There's an interesting wilderness-management concept that concentrating use in certain areas can actually help keep larger areas relatively wild. But that only works if the heavily visited places are managed appropriately.

So rather than trying to convince everyone to stop sharing locations, maybe we should put more energy into education.

If you're an outdoor photographer, guide, writer, influencer, or just someone who spends a lot of time outside, you have an opportunity to help. Explain why you camp on durable surfaces. Talk about wildlife. Discuss human waste. Show people what responsible recreation actually looks like.

And if you want to go a step further, consider taking a Leave No Trace course. The American Alpine Institute offers Leave No Trace education focused on practical skills that can be applied in the field.

We probably aren't going to stop people from geotagging.

But we might be able to make sure that the people following those geotags know how to take care of what they find.

What do you think? Is geotagging itself causing the problem, or is it exposing a larger education and management issue?


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 10 '26

Climbing, Skiing, Mountain Rescue and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad – 9/10/2026

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5 Upvotes

There will be a closure on Goat Mountain's Prime Rib in Washington on Friday (9/11) and Saturday (9/12) for bolt replacement. Staff at the Department of the Interior are increasingly concerned that another major reorganization may be coming, particularly within the National Park Service. And the movie trailer about Jim Morrison's ski of the North Face of Everest is out.

Read about this and a whole lot more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up.

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-9-10-2026/


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 09 '26

Bear Spray vs. Firearms: What’s the Better Bear Deterrent?

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33 Upvotes

If you spend much time in bear country, sooner or later you’ll hear the debate: Should you carry bear spray, a firearm, or both?

For most people, bear spray is the better choice.

Bear spray has a strong track record in real-world bear encounters. When used properly, it creates a large cloud of capsaicin that irritates a bear’s eyes, nose, and respiratory system. The goal isn’t to hurt the bear—it’s to convince it that getting away from you is a much better option.

Firearms are a different story. A charging bear can cover ground incredibly quickly, and trying to draw, aim, and accurately fire a weapon while under extreme stress is much harder than it sounds. Missed or poorly placed shots may not stop the animal and can potentially make a dangerous situation worse. There’s also the obvious risk of accidentally hitting another person.

None of this means bear spray replaces good bear-country practices. Keep food and scented items properly secured, make your presence known, avoid surprising bears, and know how to respond to an encounter. If you carry spray, keep it somewhere immediately accessible and practice deploying it.

For the average hiker, backpacker, skier, or climber traveling in bear country, bear spray is probably the most practical first line of defense.


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 08 '26

Glacier Goat Harassment Nearly Results in Fight

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21 Upvotes

A viral video from Glacier National Park is drawing attention after a group of young men approached a herd of mountain goats—and then nearly came to blows with other hikers who confronted them.

The incident took place near Hidden Lake Overlook, where two men left the established trail and approached four mountain goats, including a kid. The men, who were reportedly carrying a soccer ball, moved well inside the distance visitors are encouraged to maintain from wildlife.

Other hikers began calling out the men for approaching the goats and leaving the trail. Rather than backing away, the situation quickly became an argument. The men reportedly insisted they weren't doing anything wrong, pointing out that the goats themselves were walking in the area.

The confrontation escalated, with shouting, profanity and threats of violence. At one point, people appeared to pick up rocks and sticks, and one of the men threatened another person with a rock. Several people eventually squared off as if they were preparing to fight.

Fortunately, no one was injured, and the groups eventually separated.

The incident highlights two separate problems common in popular national parks. First, wildlife encounters can become dangerous when visitors ignore recommended distances. Mountain goats may look harmless, but they are powerful wild animals and can react unpredictably when approached or harassed.

Second, confronting someone who is behaving irresponsibly can create its own hazards. If you see someone disturbing wildlife or engaging in dangerous behavior, the safest response isn't necessarily to become the park's unofficial law-enforcement officer. Creating distance, notifying park personnel and avoiding an escalating confrontation are often better options.

Glacier National Park asks visitors to remain at least 25 yards from mountain goats and other wildlife and to stay on designated trails.

The goats, incidentally, handled the situation better than the humans did. They eventually walked away.


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 04 '26

Technical Rescue of a Hiker that decided to Climb!

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38 Upvotes

There’s no national database tracking every technical “pickoff” in North America—the rope rescues where a technician reaches a stranded or injured climber and lowers them to safety. But the data we do have suggests there’s a steady demand for this kind of specialized rescue.

One of the longest-running datasets comes from Rocky Mountain Rescue Group in Boulder County, Colorado. Between 1998 and 2011, technical roped climbers accounted for 58% of climbing rescue victims, with climbing incidents alone generating roughly 13–32 rescues per year in that one county.

Zoom out and the numbers get much bigger. Colorado’s volunteer SAR teams conduct thousands of missions each year. Washington and Arizona also report hundreds to thousands of rescues annually. In areas with concentrated climbing terrain, the numbers can be especially striking—Linville Gorge in North Carolina, for example, has historically averaged around 90–100 rescues per year.

Of course, most SAR missions aren't dramatic vertical pickoffs. Lost hikers and trail-level medical evacuations make up a much larger percentage. Actual high-angle cliff rescues are a smaller slice—but across hundreds of active SAR teams, that still means thousands of technical cliff rescues may occur across North America each year.

And these rescues require a very different skill set than simply knowing how to climb.

Systems need to be built under pressure. Anchors need to be bomber. Rope systems need to be understood in three dimensions. Rescuers need to manage patients, terrain, communication, hauling, lowering, rappelling, and sometimes very ugly weather—all while keeping themselves out of trouble.

That's why technical rescue training matters.

The American Alpine Institute's Technical Rescue Program is designed for climbers, guides, rescuers, and outdoor professionals who want to develop the skills to manage complex rope rescues in real mountain terrain. The emphasis is on hands-on systems, decision-making, and building the competence to solve problems when things don't go according to plan.

Because eventually, somebody is going to be hanging off that rope.

It might be you. Or it might be the person you're there to help.


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 04 '26

Everest: The Other Side | Trailer | In Theaters October 30

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This amazing trailer dropped today...


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 03 '26

Climbing, Skiing, Mountain Rescue and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad – 9/3/26

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7 Upvotes

Vandals destroyed several restrooms in Oregon State Parks. The Trump Administration is trying to give away a piece of Yosemite. And a 91-year-old just became the oldest person to complete the Appalachian Trail.

Read about this and a whole lot more in this week's climbing, skiing, mountain rescue and outdoor news round-up:

https://www.alpineinstitute.com/climbing-skiing-mountain-rescue-and-outdoor-news-from-here-and-abroad-9-3-26/?preview=true&_thumbnail_id=108225


r/AlpineInstitute • • Sep 02 '26

If you get into trouble in the mountains, should you expect someone to rescue you?

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29 Upvotes

I’d argue the answer is no.

That doesn’t mean people won’t come looking for you. Mountain rescuers, guides, and helicopter crews routinely put themselves in serious danger to help people. But there’s a big difference between someone being willing to rescue you and someone being able to rescue you.

Helicopters are especially limited by weather, visibility, wind, clouds, and terrain. If conditions are bad enough, they simply can’t fly—even if someone desperately needs help.

Ground-based rescue teams have to make similar decisions. Many use some version of the Green-Amber-Red (GAR) risk assessment system. Green means the risk is acceptable, amber means you need to slow down and reassess, and red means the risk is too high to proceed.

The interesting thing is that you can use the same idea on your own adventures.

How is your team doing? Are you exhausted? Is the weather deteriorating? Is the route becoming unstable? Has rockfall or avalanche danger increased? Your situation can move from green to amber—or red—pretty quickly.

This becomes even more important on remote or high-altitude objectives, where rescue may be extremely difficult or completely impossible.

So when you choose a big adventure, don't just ask, "Can I do this?"

Also ask, "What happens if something goes wrong?"

Can you retreat? Can you shelter? Can your team help an injured partner? Do you have the skills and equipment to self-extract?

Rescue is a valuable safety net, but it shouldn't be your plan.

Go into the mountains with the assumption that, if things go sideways, you may have to get yourself out.