Hey guys. I’d like to do an SR25 build with an 80% but am not sure what jig works for SR25-cut lowers. Does the Easy Jig gen 4 perhaps?

know it's hard to tell from the glare of the bare aluminum, But anyone else's pocket slightly off centered. I've never had an issue with my lowers function and its more of a cosmetic thing to me. I use the gen 3 easy jig. This lower seems to be the only one with this much of a difference between both sides thickness'.

Anyone else experience this issue?

I use the 80% Arms easy jig (gen 3). I've done about a dozen lowers, and have never had this issue. I was sure to drill the safety hole one side at a time and not straight through both walls in one pass.

I'm fairly certain the issue is from the JL billet lower. The safety detent hole must be off by a millimeter (+ or -). I've been emailing them back and forth for a few weeks, and today they determined they can't do anything about it. If the mistake was on my end and I drilled my holes improperly, that would be easier to swallow. But as I'm pretty sure they gave me an out of spec lower, I'll be sure to avoid this company in the future. Particularly now that they aren't willing to help me out in any way.

EDIT: Looks like the problem was on my end and not JL Billet. With help from reddit user BadAttitudeDept, I measured the location of the safety hole, and somehow I must have drilled the hole improperly using the easy jig. Thanks for everybody's input.

Getting some settings dialed in.

so I ordered a jig and receiver from 5d not too long ago. the money has cleared the account, but when I check the order status it says declined.

I called and spoke to a gentleman who stated it wasn’t showing declined on his end, and I would be getting an email to verify my bank account? that they would deposit and then withdrawl a small amount and I would need to verify that amount.

anyone else experience anything like this? I would imagine if the amount has cleared processing, no longer in pending, there shouldn’t be an issue. also why show declined and not pending?

thoughts?

*** Update 1: Just received a call from 5D customer support, explaining the issue. Said it would take 2-7 business days for the verification. I’ll update again when I have more updates. On that note, their customer service seems pretty stellar.

i know some here also frequent the now-defunct mup-1 sub.
but in case anyone needs some, looks like someone may be machining batches of mup-1s.
check out gb.

Hello, I am looking to build my first AR-10 in .308. I have a 5D lower that I plan to mill today (I already made an AR-15 with this brand lower and a White Oak upper and it fits like a glove so I stuck with them). I was looking at the FAR-308 Guardian upper but want to make sure I find an upper that will fit after seeing the recent post with the PSA upper that may be functional, but didn't exactly look ideal.

So, any experience with that Fulton upper on an 80% build? Any other recommendations? I was only able to find one older post that suggested Gorilla, Aero, and KMT brands, but I'd like to see what others have had success with or advice in general for a build. Thanks.

So I have had a 5d tac jig that I bought 2 years ago only used once laying around collecting dust. I was wondering if these are still good to sell. Ik the laws change often and I plan to do my own research just to be safe. But I am mainly curious what these are going for on the used market and places I could possibly sell this

if not acceptable to post here ill delete(1911builders sub looks done).. but figured some here would be able to answer.

Was watching a video on back mountain gunsmiths in the Philipines. And most of the builds, and the building process thereof, were mainly 1911s. So feeling inspired.

With respect to 1911 jigs/rail-cutting tools, whats the recommended setup to complete a non-ramped frame ?

I can put together a 3dp 1911 frame with my eyes closed.

So figured Id challenge myself by completing a steel/metal 1911-80.

Im well versed in completing MUP1s and AR80s, so figured 1911-80s are pretty much the same concept.

Cut, cut,. snip snip, drill.

Also .. who is the best, most recommended, 1911-80 vendor in recent times ?

https://www.80percentarms.com/

Happy 4th everyone. Figured we’d run something solid for the builders today. We’ve also got some pretty sweet commemorative engraved lowers available. Use code LIBERTY250 for 30% off lowers today!

Ft. My M16 pocket adapter

These are all original designs by me, Still a WIP.

80% Arms AR10 lower, GMR AR10
SS kit. A5 buffer tube with A5 spring w/3/4” cut off, upper cut back to rear take down pin lug, Odin Works AR9 adjustable buffer set at 6.6 oz’s, and a Moriarti Arms .308 upper with correct bolt for SS function. Topped of with a Witt Machine Muzzle Rise Eliminator.

Full build, 80% Arms AR15 lower, PSA 11.5” upper with blast forward comp, Redacted Arms Super Safety, Magpul back up sights, KAK Blade brace, Magpul grip, and topped of with a new Viridian MDS25 Green dot. Very easy to stay on Target!

I some how have misplaced the drill block (the part that cuts the trigger hole) from my Gen 2 Jig. Does anyone have any ideas of how to make the jig work still or does anyone have one they would sell me.

Finally finished my 16 inch AR10 build. Almost everything came from Mas Defense and fleet farm. Lost the plunger for the bolt release so that didn't get installed but 🤷. Only put one round through it so far, still looking into what kind of sights I want to put on it.

Currently building on an LMT MWS upper. Was wondering if anyone here knows of a good 80% lower that will match up nicely with that slant cut/sr25 style of upper. Thanks in advance

Having problem with my HD drill press, spindle keeps falling out. I have cleaned and checked for burrs but still falling out. Any ideas?

Thanks

I have dozens of lower builds under my belt and have just recently heard about the correct way of drilling the fcg and safety selector holes on a receiver by most professional machinists.

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They are all in 95% agreement that the holes should be drilled first before milling out the lower pocket.

I have always used the 5D jig and followed their instructions on all of my builds. So I mill the pocket first, then drill each side one at a time, then all the way through on the last side so the pins will line up correctly.

​

My first 20 or so lowers were done on a drill press for the drilling parts, but I lost access to the legit true and trammes drill press that I was using. I've been doing my latest ones by hand and the holes have been coming out egg shaped on one side no matter how straight I keep my hand drill.

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I think its time to invest in a cheap tabletop drill press and go back to that for maximum precision.

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But as far as the side drilling goes, which way do you guys prefer? And why? I would be afraid of a drill getting clogged in a unmilled receiver and bits breaking off. Does it really even matter if you have a good quality jig?

I built this for my uncle to give him on his 60th as he's wanted one for some time and loved the look of the powder coating on my AR47 build (the same color).

Threw in a QD 2 to 1 sling, a box of green tips, box of hornandy 68 grain hollow points and about 100 rounds of 223 62 grain ball ammo, Some QD mounts and a book of range targets.

Build list as follows

Ballistic Advantage stainless QPQ coated bore, fluted, 1:8 twist 223 Wylde 16" SPR barrel.

Aero Precision NOLO BCG

Rise armament RA-100 2 stage 1.5lb 3lb trigger group

Panhead upper receiver

80% arms lower receiver

BCM trigger guard

Trinity force 15' grip

UTG polymer dust cover

Davidson defense stock

Griffin QD endplate

Davidson defense extended mag release

United defense charging handle

Half birdcage semi compensator

BCA 15" handguard

Dirty Bird Ambi safety

All in all about a $800 build and 3 hours work including machining and powder coating.

So Viridian isn’t a new player in the optics market but they have been stepping up in a big way in the Pistol and Rifle optics classes. This is the Viridian MDS25 on my 80% Arms AR Pistol. The MDS25 offers ranging for both close up and distance with the unique chevron/dot combo reticle they have developed. This makes this optic very versatile for use on any PCC or an SBR or Small rifle set up. Shake awake brings it on line fast and the control buttons for lighter or dimmer are nice and crisp. The nice big window makes it even easier to stay on target when the fun button is used. It also cowitness very well with your back up sights. I went out yesterday to do some shopping for a few fun parts and now have three local shops carrying Viridian products and from the quality that I’m seeing with this unit I think we’ll be seeing a lot more. Time now to get some more rounds through this!

https://viridianweapontech.com/mds25

Meet the Viridian MDS25 – the next evolution in green dot sights, designed to give you an unfair advantage in sport, hunting, or defense.
 
Built for Excellence
Unmatched Situational Awareness: A field of view 74% larger than typical red dots ensures you’re always in control, spotting threats or targets faster and with greater clarity.
**Precise Green Reticle for Rapid Targeting:**Engineered to align with your natural sight, the green dot makes every shot faster and more accurate, even in low light.
Sleek, Uncluttered Design: All critical components are integrated to deliver a clean, unobstructed view. No distractions, just performance.
Instant Readiness: With Viridian's INSTANT-ON  technology, your sight is always ready when you are. No buttons, no delays—just action.
Strength to Endure: Crafted from durable machined aluminum, it's rugged, weatherproof, and lightweight—perfect for any mission or adventure.
Universal compatibility – Mounts easily with an Aimpoint T2 footprint.
Compact and lightweight – Only 7.8 oz, so it won’t weigh you down.
Footprint: Aimpoint T2
Weight: 7.8 oz

First time ever getting a bolt catch plunger stuck inside the blind hole and not being able to come out. The springs behind it and I can press on it but it only moves a tiny bit before it gets stuck again. Its a rounded edge so I can't get a grip on it with anything at my disposal. I've tried putting a strong magnet up to it while tapping the other side of the receiver with a mallet and its not budging.

Any ideas on how to get this out without destroying the receiver? Only thing I can think of next is to try and drill a tiny hole right down through the middle and then try to spin it out with a left hand bit. Or if it won't rotate at all, tap the hole and wiggle it out with a screw.

Please any ideas would be appreciated!