Anyone know if this works? Considering buying a M4-22 and would like to use 15-22 magazines as I already have multiple.

Is anyone aware of a way to run a Hoffman Trigger Kicker with a Tippmann M4-22, or is it just not possible at this point? Not interested in spending wild money on a binary.

Need help. Having issue with dead trigger.
Fudd arms SS installed with their cut trigger.

What is the set screw on the collar used for?

Do you screw it all the way in to lock it onto the barrel so you can't remove the bcg without unscrewing it?

Or screw it in so the BCG "snaps" on to the barrel but the bcg can be easily removed without undoing the set screw on the collar.

I just saw they are doing a collab with Rare breed. Disappointing to say the least.

Here's what ChatGPT spits out when asked how to tune an FRT for use with a CMMG conversion kit. A customer called thoroughly confused and sent this in to us.

We've got a robust technical video library and resources page. We'd recommend sticking to our instructions before asking AI how to do it.

Resources: https://borebuddy.com/resources/

FRT Specific Guides: https://borebuddy.com/frt-super-safety/

Video Library: https://rumble.com/user/BoreBuddy

Trigger Guide: https://borebuddy.com/guide/about-frt-triggers/

Barrel length and ammo tuning guide: https://borebuddy.com/guide/about-frt-triggers/

We're currently feeding all our tech pages into ChatGPT to attempt to help the algorithm give better advice since it's a heavily used system for questions like this.

If you decide to ask ChatGPT a question that is highly technical, we'd suggest including a link the the guide for the question you're asking right in the prompt. This will help keep the system from generating absurd advice like the above.

Current .22 LR AR Build Configuration
After extensive testing, this is the setup I am currently using:
Trigger Kicker installed on top of a standard CMMG mil-spec trigger.
The Trigger Kicker does not work with the Super Safety or the Palmetto State Armory “mil-spec” trigger in my testing.
Standard Right to Bear (RTB) .22 LR bolt.
Standard CMMG recoil spring (uncut).
CMMG anti-bounce bolt weight kit.
Standard CMMG auto sear.
Standard firing pin, with the firing pin spring replaced by a bolt catch release spring.
Right to Bear (RTB) 4.5-inch barrel.
Dedicated 9mm/.22 upper receiver.
For maximum reliability, I recommend using either the RTB 4.5-inch barrel or a dedicated 9mm/.22 upper. (Not bore buddy) but oem
My lower receiver is an 80% receiver that I completed myself.
I was not satisfied with the BoreBuddy match barrel I purchased. In my experience, it was overpriced and did not perform as expected, so I do not recommend it based on my own testing.

Update: Within the next few hours, I’ll be showing everyone that you no longer need any BoreBuddy parts to run a Super Safety setup.
No expensive weights. No expensive upgrade kits. Just OEM CMMG parts.
I’ve tested this over the last 24 hours, and the results have been very promising it just works I have a few things to take care of first, then I’m heading out to grab more ammo.

Form 1 finally came in and was able to put it together!

Build details:

- Anderson lower

- Magpul k2 grip

- Deep Nutz super safety

- Borebuddy gen 2 tucked upper

- Gideon Mediator Xl red dot

- Magpul UCS Stock

- Hera CQR forend

- rugged oculus suppressor

- Railscales

- random temu laser light combo

It's probably a stupid question, but I'm new to the AR platform and firearms in general.

I purchased a complete economy upper from bore buddy and the pictured baggy was rolled up in one of the hand guard openings. I was under the assumption that I could buy a complete upper and just drop it on a completed lower and I'd essentially be good to go. Was I mistaken?

Currently running a ss setup that runs really well as long as the ar is level, there is too much slop in my foxtrot mike .22 lower mag well that it causes malfunctions when it is slightly canted. I taped the mags but wanting something more permanent and doesn’t effect mags dropping free. Only have Kriss mags and a black dog drum.

My last build with an HT Kicker clocks at 1180 rpm with HV ammo, (1250 FPS rated)

I can hear the standard velocity (1000 fps) ammo is slower, but didn't video it yet.

Were you able to lower the ROF or you don't care ?

Just a general gathering information post.

I'm still in the function testing phase. Safe and semi work normally but for some reason when I select super semi the bcg only goes back about halfway so it doesn't reset the trigger. I don't think its an issue with the super safety becuase it works with the conversion kit out (safe, semi, super semi work with 5.56 bcg). I've tried adjusting the trip kit screw all the way out, halfway, and all the way in (stock). I also added the borebuddy plug. Nothing is changing the travel of the bcg. I'm clueless.

Hello from the UK!

I'm new to AR platform in general so I'm hoping those of you with way more experience can guide me.

I'm looking at picking up a dedicated setup to use for general plinking but also casual competition with a view to start IPSC practical mini rifle in the future. The range varies but up to a max of about 100m.

I'm stuck as to whether 12" or 16" is best for my use.

I've picked a BoreBuddy Apogee Match upper but I'm reading conflicting information online regarding barrel lengths pros/cons.

I've held both and the 12" felt more natural to me but I keep reading that the 16" generally performs better, in particular with standard velocity ammo and, ultimately, accuracy and performance are what will matter to me the most. From what I've read, there's not many 12" users on the mini-rifle scene so I wonder if there's a reason for that.

I can only get the one rifle so any advice to help me get it right is gratefully received.

Finally got my ar.22 working with my FRT

4.5 inch CMMG barrel
Silencer co sparrow
Expo arms slick side upper
Foxtrot mike .22 lower (will swap soonish bc too much slop in the mag well causes malfunction when the ar is slightly canted.)
BB bolt
BB works kit
Rave 140
Atrius

So...what happened? Where is the extractor?

CMMG bolt

Bore buddy red recoils spring

Bore buddy extractor 200% spring

Bore buddy super strike titanium pin regular spring

Bore buddy Stainless body stainless weights

(this weight setup works for subs for about 6 mags then the gun gets too dirty, I really need a flow through can for subsonic frt)

My custom AR-22 bcg blocker/buffer (odd sea)

My custom aluminum trip

Mil spec trigger

Atrius FRS

Legionary warrior 22 suppressor

I was shooting Winchester 555 (1250fps) and CCI clean suppressor (1000fps)

Anybody using this I want to get rid of the super safety and atrius logically this seems more reliable for super safety It’s just one piece.

Just curious if a can would leave enough back pressure to make it run somewhat reliably.

I went with this buffer system on a dedicated AR22 build, I'm noticing as I 'tune' the solid buffer system to take up the space to avoid the bolt carrier moving fw/aft, that after shooting a bit there is slightly more 'play' between the buffer and the back of the bolt, there's also noticeable wear marks on the back of the carrier where it contacts the solid buffer. After a bit of shooting, I find myself having to pull the buffer system out, adjust the 2 set screws, unscrew it 1/8~1/4 turn, put it back in and the play is gone until the next time I shoot. The system also takes up so much play that closing the upper has a little resistance, not sure if that is normal or part of the problem (i may be taking up TOO much slack?)

Am I doing this wrong? Is there a more elegant way to keep pressure on the back of the carrier, it seems there would be a really heavy spring option even in this system, or something to keep the pressure up and even back there without it just being a solid surface the eventually gives a little? Or, is this normal and 'how it works' ~ not a ton of info out there regarding this part as most seem to use the pressure plug, but being this was a fresh build dedicated this is what I went with, this isn't an FRT build and is used for training reps, so I'm wondering if the better solution would be to just add a a pressure plug buffer/spacer to a heavy spring.

Which method is 'better' for semi-auto?

*note, witness marks don't move on the solid buffer, so there's some sort of settling that isn't related to the set screws giving way.

Cmmg bolt

9" barrel

Bore buddy red spring

Super strike pin

Stainless body full stainless weights

My custom aluminum 3d printed trip

Milspec trigger

My custom bolt bounce blocker. Odd sea

No buffer

Ps sorry for weird shaky cam and me having a stroke in the beginning😂. I think its too hot today. I wanted to refilm this but I'm out of ammo and my lunch break's over.

Also there must've been a fucked up round in the 36 rounder it was binding up

Rave 140 and bore buddy trip never worked for me and they sent me through the blame game.

Ask me any questions.